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europe

Packing for Europe in a Backpack This Summer

Packing for Europe in a backpack isn’t only for gap year students hostel-hopping! Not only are international checked baggage fees expensive, but who wants to risk their bag becoming lost luggage?! While a carry-on bag also fits the bill here, some of those old cobblestone streets are rough on the ‘ole spinner wheels. A nice backpack will be able to fit everything you need, while also affording you flexibility and easy mobility. Even if you plan to be gone a couple weeks, it’s sooooo possible to master packing in a backpack this summer. To make it even easier, we’ve included a handy checklist below!

First and foremost, what bag to pack in??? I’m obsessed with my Cotopaxi Alpa 42L backpack, and between the five of us sisters, we own four different variations of this fun and functional pack. The bag is designed perfectly to help maximize space and keep you organized while traveling. 

The most important thing about packing a capsule wardrobe is planning pieces that can mix and match seamlessly. Having nice basics is the perfect way to rework your outfits, and have everything feel fresh. As someone that’s a big champion of leisurewear, I also love finding pieces that I could wear on a hike but I could also dress up and look nicer in as well. Below I’ve detailed everything I packed for our 11-day trip.

TOPS
Basic tees (3)

I own this cropped cotton tee from Old Navy in three different colors, and I’m nothing short of obsessed with it. It looks as perfect with a skirt as it does with leggings. Something like this is a nice staple that’s easy to mix and match between outfits. 

Tank tops (2-4)

A couple tank tops are nice to have as Europe can get a bit toasty in the summer. I packed a reversible (can be worn high neck or scoop) white lululemon tank and a fun one shoulder cropped tank from Beyond Yoga. They’re versatile, breathe well, and keep you comfy. 

Thin Long/Short Sleeve shirt (1-2)

While summer days do warm up, they can sometimes start a bit chilly. A thin shirt to cover your shoulders and/or arms can be nice to have!

Linen shirt (1)

Nothing beats a slightly oversized white linen shirt. It’s the perfect layer for almost any outfit! I actually tied my linen shirt to my fanny pack, which made it easy to have on hand when I got chilly 

BOTTOMS
Leggings (3)

Perhaps this is a lazy girl packing ethos, but I’m just not one to pack jeans. This of course kinda depends on where you’re going, but much of Europe will get into the 80s and above during the day. If I’m not wearing a dress or skirt, I want my pants breathable! Leggings are also rather nice to have if you plan to go hiking at all! 

Skort (1-2)

I personally could not be a bigger fan of skorts… it’s a way to elevate your look a bit, while still staying comfy and being able to walk, wander, climb, etc with ease.

Midi skirt (1)

Flowy and casual, a nice mid-length skirt will be short enough to let the breeze through, while still having you look rather nice. The perfect skirt could be worn all day exploring, dressed up for a fun dinner, and thrown on with a bathing suit the next day for the beach. 

Denim shorts (1)

These are super versatile! You can wear them out exploring the city but you can also throw them on over a bathing suit at the beach. 

Joggers (1)

Whether it’s for a plane ride or a train ride or just some time in the car, you’re almost assuredly going to have some time that gets spent traveling to your destination or from one place to another. Not every outfit you pack is going to be your hot girl summer ‘fit, and sometimes it’s nice to have a comfy pair of joggers when you’re traveling

OUTERWEAR 
Light Jacket (1)

While summer days can be warm, mornings and evenings can get rather chilly. A nice light-to-mid-weight jacket is the perfect layer to keep you warm without being too bulky in your bag.

Cropped hoodie (1)

This is another piece that’s nice to have on your travel day. Perhaps a bit slouchier and cozier than your jacket. While summer days can get quite warm, it does cool off in the evenings… and it never hurts to have something comfy, cozy for those longer train rides. 

DRESSES
Dealer’s choice (2)

Honesty, everyone is a little different, but I’d suggest 2 somewhat flowy dresses. Depending on what activities or dinners you have planned, you might want something a bit more dressy… or perhaps you’d get more use out of a sporty athleisure dress. Anything you pack should be something you’d be comfortable walking at least a mile or two in, but exactly what you go with can depend on your comfort and itinerary.

SHOES
Sneakers (2)

Not all sneakers are created equally, so I recommend packing two different pairs… one that’s a bit cuter– something you could wear with a dress but also wouldn’t mind walking a couple miles in. The other pair would be a pair of tennies you don’t mind getting dirty. This past summer I packed a pair of old black & white Brooks that I’d pretty much worn through the sole, and then just donated them the day before we left to leave room for a couple purchases on the way back. 

Sandals (1)

Whether it’s your worn-in Birks or perhaps your favorite Target sandals, it’s nice to have something easy to slide on sometimes. They should still be comfortable enough that they could take you on a longer walk if necessary, but something you’d be okay taking to the beach as well. 

ESSENTIAL EXTRAS
Underwear (12)

Can you ever pack too many pairs of underwear?? Even if I plan to do laundry while I’m gone, I almost never leave home without enough underwear to get me through… just in case! 

Socks (7)

If you have access to a washing machine during your adventuring, 7 pairs of socks should do the trick– especially if you’re not wearing your sneakers every day. 

Sports Bra (5)

I didn’t pack even a single a ~real bra~, but that’s just my style. I live in sports bras, and ~5 is enough. Depending on where you end up and how warm the weather ends up being, you might want an extra if you’re worried about getting sweaty, but 5 should do the job. 

Bathing Suits (1-2)

Perhaps it’s the Florida girl in me, but you ALWAYS pack a bathing suit when you leave town… you never know when there’s going to be a beach or pool that needs adventuring. Depending on how much time you plan to spend at the beach it may be nice to have a second suit– plus they don’t take up too much space! 

Pajamas (1-2)

Unless you’re a real sweaty sleeper, one or two pairs of pajamas should do the trick. Getting good sleep is essential when you’re traveling, so make sure you stay big comfy. 

THE NON-ATTIRE ESSENTIAL EXTRAS
  • Toiletries 
    • Never leave home without your toothbrush and (at least) the basics of your skincare routine. There’s nothing worse than getting ready for bed after a long travel day and realizing your toothbrush is sitting on the counter at home.
  • Chargers 
    • Unless you’re going for a very unplugged, eat-pray-love kind of trip, you’ll want to ensure your chargers are in your bag before you leave for the airport!
  • Converter plugs 
    • Your chargers won’t do you much good if you don’t have a converter. These are easy to snag at Target or on Amazon. Some hotels and Airbnbs might have a USB port you can plug directly into, but that’s not always a guarantee.
  • Fanny pack
    • Belt bag, waist bag, fanny pack… whatever you want to call it, it’s convenient to have. I’m not one for carrying a purse around, and I can fit my phone, a small wallet, hand sanitizer, chapstick, gum, and hand lotion in my pack. That’s everything I need! If I’m worried about getting cold, it’s easy to tie a long sleeve shirt onto the strap too. My go-to fanny pack is black, so it matches practically everything!
  • Small 12L hiking backpack 
    • Even if you don’t plan to go hiking, most hiking day packs are light, quick-drying, and quite compact. Whether you’re going on a hike or a day trip, it’s nice to be able to have all your important things with you. The only “purse” I packed was a fanny pack, so the hiking backpack was perfect when I wanted to bring the tripod, an extra layer, not carry my water bottle, etc.
  • Water bottle 
    • Ugh, my biggest gripe with (most) European travel is the lack of free tap water availability. Even in the US, I never go anywhere without my water bottle, so I always made sure it was filled to the brim before we set out in the morning. You won’t regret having your water bottle with you!
  • Sunglasses 
    • Full disclosure, I actually brought two pairs of sunnies because I wanted to have a backup just in case I lost one of my pairs. Sunglasses are a gal’s best friend on a bright day!!
  • Sunscreen
    • Even just a small, travel sized sunscreen can be just what you need to keep your shoulders, chest, back, or whatever else from burning.
FRIVOLOUS & NON-ESSENTIAL
  • Small scarves
    • A small scarf or two is the perfect way to help add a bit of pizazz to your basics. You can wear then around your neck, you can turn it into a headband, or you can tie it to your bag as a splash of color.
  • Towel 
    • Your fluffiest robe will have to stay home, but packing a quick-dry camping towel will fit in you bag easily. While it’s not quite as luxe, it does the job when you need to dry off after the pool, beach, etc.
  • Tripod
    • Very tacky tourist, but honestly not every random stranger ~understands the assignment~, and I’ve never regretted a single cute sister pic
  • Mini straightener
    • Definitely not an essential, but depending on how crazy your hairs get (or how cute you’re trying to look on vacation), some of the mini straighteners take up a pretty minimal amount of space, and just might be worth it for your hot girl summer.
  • Travel pillow 
    • This is less of a necessity and more of a nice-to-have— especially if you plan to take any evening flights or early morning train rides. A little bit of comfort goes a long way when you’re trying to catch some zzzz’s.
  • Eye mask
    • This sounds like a bit of a prima donna packing list item, buttttt a nice eye mask can go a long way to help you sleep on an overnight flight. Plus, depending on where you’re staying, it can be nice to ensure you have complete darkness when it’s time to hit the hay.
packing for europe in a backpack sometimes means taking fat naps on the train as dana has demonstrated by staying slumped in her tan sweatsuit
on the other hand, some people can just pass out anywhere
THE LIST

If you do better with a nicely condensed packing list, we have it all spelled out for you here below! After a lifetime of being a last minute, throw-everything-I-might-need-in-the-bag packer, I can say, planning a capsule wardrobe can sometimes take a bit more time but it’s time well spent! It’s possible to have enough items for all your activities and still look cute and trendy while carrying everything you need right on your back.

Full disclosure, this summer I traveled with my Cotopaxi and a personal-item sized tote bag I used as a personal item. Since my travel pillow doesn’t really compress, I ended up keeping the pillow and my light jacket in the tote on my travel days. I either carried my water bottle or tossed it in the tote, but everything else fit in the backpack! Since my bottle was too big for the side pocket of the backpack, I slid the tripod in there, which was a perfect way to bring it along without taking up too much space. 

The ultimate travel hack? Traveling with your little sister so you can swap clothes throughout the trip! Between the two of us, we had more than enough clothes and outfits for our 11 days. Also, if it’s possible, it’s nice to book an Airbnb or hotel with a washer/dryer, to ensure you’ll be able to do laundry somewhat easily, if necessary. We did one round of mid-trip laundry, and it was more than enough to keep us clean and comfy the rest of the trip!


written by Hannah 

Hannah has learned the hard way to be careful what you wish for— sometimes happily ever after lands you with a husband and puppy… in the Midwest.  Despite leaving Florida to move to Wisconsin,  Hannah maintains her bossy big sister role with regular phone calls to keep up with all the little sister shenanigans. Notoriously chatty with her patients as well, Hannah stays busy as a physical therapist, but loves spending weekends exploring newfound hikes.


Categories
europe

A London Stopover: Making the Most of 24 Hours

London is not only the capital of England but of all of the United Kingdom as well, making it quite the historic city to visit. It’s also a booming metropolis, with heaps of commerce and culture just waiting to be experienced. While it would be easy to spend a few days here exploring sights, sounds, and smells, sometimes the cars don’t quite shake out that way. Perhaps you just have a long layover? Or maybe you intentionally booked a stop-over in London, just to catch a glimpse before you jetset to your final destination. Whatever the reason, there’s loads to see and do, even if you only have 24 hours in London. 

This past summer Dana and I were looking to use points to catch a flight back home. There was no availability for our dates out of Portugal or even nearby Spain, so we decided to check out some of the other bigger airports in Europe.

When we saw London had ample availability, we decided to book a cheap flight from Faro (check out the Algarve coast blog post here) to London and spent a day exploring a new city. We technically stretched it out into a 33 hour stop-over as we spent two sleeps in London, but this itinerary works just as perfectly for anyone that arrives early in the morning one day and doesn’t depart again until the following morning. 

CATCHING ZZZZZZs

If you’re truly just in London for a long layover or stopover, it’s easiest to just stay at a hotel in the airport. This tends to streamline things for you as it’s easy to get to your hotel immediately and easy to fly out of there upon departure. 

There are hotels located in all five terminals at Heathrow, and by and large, the most convenient will be whichever is attached to the terminal you’re flying out of. That being said, The Heathrow Express train, which gets you down to Paddington Station, leaves out of Terminal 2 & 3. So regardless of which terminal you arrive or depart out of, getting a hotel near this transportation point will make your adventure day easier. 

Best Location

Hilton Garden Inn – Located in terminals 2 & 3… a little spendy but the cost just might be worth the convenience. This hotel is going to be the most convenient for anyone arriving or departing out of terminals 2 and 3, but it also makes catching the train into London suuuper easy. Plus you can watch planes take off from the hotel bar! 

Best Value

Premier Inn London Heathrow Airport Terminal 4 (there is one at Terminal 5 as well) — Located in Terminal 4, the price is hard to beat, while still affording the convenience of being in the airport. This is prime for anyone flying out of Terminal 4, but it was also extremely easy to get to from Terminal 2. We found the train to be pretty straightforward to use, with plenty of attendants around to help shepard people in the right direction. 

That Cash Money

When looking at European travel, it can be easy to forget that England uses the pound as its currency. This is only worth noting because the conversion rate can be very different from the euro at times, so just keep an eye out. Nothing’s worse than checking your credit card statement to discover you went way over budget! 

If you’re just visiting London for the day, there’s no need to pull out cash. Generally speaking, you should be able to see and do everything you’d like, using your credit card.

Transportation 

The train and the tube will be your friends!! We stayed at a hotel in the airport to make our departure as convenient as possible when the time came, but taking the metro from the airport into the city was pretty smooth! If you happen to have a longer stay in London, it certainly makes sense to find accommodations in the city, but if your stay is pretty brief, we definitely recommend staying nice and close to the airport. 

We stayed at the Premier Inn in Terminal 4, which means we caught a train from Terminal 4 to Terminals 2 & 3. While the intra-airport train is free, you will need to either tap your card (as it’s enabled) or snag an Oyster card to grant access onto the train. The train between the Terminal 5 station and Terminal 2 & 3 station departs every 30 minutes starting at 5:16am, so make sure you show up a little early for your train, otherwise you might find yourself sitting with a long wait for the next train. From the Terminal 2 & 3 station, we hopped on the Heathrow Express and were in Paddington Station a mere 15 minutes later! 

Regardless of where you arrive from, you’ll likely want to take a connecting tube ride to St. Paul station, which is where the walking tour begins. If you find public transportation overwhelming, taking a taxi or uber is always an option as well! 

Pro tip: If you plan to use the Heathrow Express buy your tickets as soon as your plans are concrete, because the earlier you buy your tickets, the cheaper they are! As an alternative, the Elizabeth line is a slightly slower but also less expensive train service line. 

Hot Packing Tips

While this is far from an all-inclusive packing list, we have three packing recommendations to make! London has a well earned reputation for its grey and rainy days, so packing a weather-proof jacket or poncho juuuuust might come in handy. At the very least, you won’t regret having clothes that dry rather quickly.

Secondly, dressing in layers is never a bad move. Even in the middle of summer, I walked around with a jacket all day long, so don’t assume summer means warm and sunny! Third, but perhaps most important, it’s a full day of wandering about, so definitely make sure you have a good pair of walking shoes packed. Depending how many extra detours you make, you will find yourself walking over 6 miles!

THE ONE DAY ITINERARY 
St. Paul’s Cathedral

St. Paul’s Cathedral is an illustrious Anglican cathedral in London. It sits atop Ludgate Hill, perched at one of the highest points in the city. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see the iconic dome and spires. While the church is named after the Apostle Paul, it has celebrated the lives of many prominent Englishmen (and women!)— perhaps most notably the wedding of Prince Charles to Princess Diana. 

When you’re squeezing a whole city into one day, there may only be time for one cathedral tour, and the two you’ll really be between are St. Paul’s and Westminster Abbey. Each has their draw, but we doubled down on tickets to St. Paul’s Cathedral because you get both the historical significance as well as an amazing view! It is absolutely amazing to explore this jewel of the London skyline. 

Sky Garden 

Sky Garden is a short walk down the road, and holds the title for highest public garden in the city! Not only is it home to endless shades of green, but it also makes for a fabulous overlook of the city. The best part? This charming garden is free to visit!!

While they will allow visitors in without a ticket during less popular visiting time, you will want to book tickets in advance to secure entry– especially if you’re planning to roll through during high season. This is the best way to ensure you’ll be able to get in. You can book tickets up to 3 weeks in advance, so we recommend setting a reminder on your phone to ensure you don’t forget!

Tower Bridge

While the London Bridge is heralded in nursery rhymes sung by children everywhere, the Tower Bridge is arguably a more beautiful architectural design piece– with loads of history as well. Not only is the bridge lovely to see from the bank of the Thames, but it’s a pedestrian bridge, so you can wander right across and take in the river as you stroll. The bridge is free to cross, but you can pay to go up into the towers. While this would potentially be a fun vertical detour on a longer trip, there will be other spots you can take in the views, so we recommend taking in the river as you pass to keep on moving and grooving. 

Borough Market

The Borough Market is nestled under the railway lines, and makes for a wonderful multi-purpose stop. First and foremost, it should be about lunchtime at this point in the day, so grab yourself a bite! Whatever cuisine you have a hankering for, they almost assuredly have someone selling your desired plate. Even after you’ve had your fill, this vibrant marketplace is teeming with unique stalls to discover— just a cornucopia of cuisine, color, and culture. 

Tate Modern 

Time for a fun this-or-that option. When you only have one day, it’s hard to squeeze EVERYTHING in– especially if it’s an activity that eats up more time. Option #1… the ever stately Tate Modern! This contemporary museum along the Thames River will have you wandering around with no regard for time. Not only are the exhibits equal parts thought-provoking and awe-inspiring, but the building itself is an architectural delight. The museum is free to enter, which grants you access to some exhibits, but not all. If there’s anything extra that catches your eye, admission tends to be pretty reasonable, so it’s a fun way to explore the art culture and scene here. 

London Eye

Coming in hot is our Option #2, the London Eye. When it opened in 2000, the London Eye was the tallest ferris wheel in the world. It has since been surpassed by four other towering, gravity defying wheels— making the London Eye a respectable 5th place holder. Riding this massive ferris wheel makes for both a fun ride as well as a fabulous overlook of the city. Definitely a little touristy, but something you certainly can’t do at home (at least not for most!) 

While it would be ideal to hit both the Tate Modern and London Eye in one day, even the most intentional planners might have a hard time squeezing both stops into the itinerary— especially in high season! When visiting the London Eye, you’ll want to account for a certain amount of time spent waiting in line to get up (think 20-30+ minutes)… plus the ~35 minutes it takes to complete the revolution. 

Big Ben

As far as renown clocks go, Big Ben pretty much takes the cake. Interestingly, the nickname ‘big ben’ actually refers to the bell in the clocktower. The eye-catch timepiece was previously named the Clock Tower, but was renamed the Elizabeth Tower in 2012 to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II. It’s not necessarily a long stop, but definitely worth stopping by to see for yourself! 

Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey is an important historical spot, for numerous reasons. The Westminster Abbey was founded in 960 AD by Benedictine monks, and has been an enduring place of worship ever since. This is where the coronation for the monarchy occurs– with King Charles being rather recently appointed. As a matter of fact, the Abbey has been the coronation church for the UK since 1066. You’ll also find 17 previous monarchs settled here for their final resting place. It’s no surprise this extravagant church has been named a World Heritage Site… for any eagle-eyed royal wedding watchers, this is also where Prince William married Princess Kate. 

Buckingham Palace

Buckingham Palace is a rather stately embodiment of the monarchy, and so very worth stopping by. If you have time, you might be able to squeeze in a tour! During the high season, this will be hard to squeeze in on the fly, so if you’re feeling rather passionate about wanting to wander the halls of Buckingham Palace, you will need to book a tour in advance. They will sell out! 

Even if you’re not itching to see Buckingham Palace from the inside out, watching the Changing of the Guard can be a unique experience. Thus occurs every day at 11:00 am in June and July or Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays, August through May. Our walking tour forms a rather oblong ‘U’, but if you do it backwards, the timing should be perfect to catch the guard change. 

Trafalgar Square 

Trafalgar Square really makes for quite the smorgasbord of London culture and art. There’s statues, fountains, and sculptures as well as the National Gallery…. plus London’s smallest police station. What more could you want? A bathroom perhaps?? Right about this time in the day, a public bathroom was quite the welcome sight, so just know that’s here as well– you do have to pay to use the bathroom, but it’s very cheap and well worth it if ya gotta go! 

Piccadilly Circus 

Piccadilly Circus isn’t quite animals and acrobats… think Times Square meets Bethesda Fountain. This massive intersection of streets has become an attraction for its digital screens and billboards, fountain, and nearby shopping. While there’s going to be the expected tourist trap haunches, there’s loads of other shops to wander through, making this a perfect final stop. 

Beep, Beep — Back It Up

From Piccadilly Circus, it’s not too hard to backtrack to the hotel. While there’s loads of apps to help navigate transportation, we already had Google Maps downloaded, and felt it did a fab job getting us where we needed to go.

A chock-a-block day, full of sights, sounds, smells, and more than your fair share of walking can leave you feeling pretty tuckered, it’s easy to power through knowing you only have 24 hours in London to take it all in! Cheers to making the most of your layover.

24 hours in London goes by quickly as two sisters hug goodbye

written by Hannah 

Hannah has learned the hard way to be careful what you wish for— sometimes happily ever after lands you with a husband and puppy… in the Midwest.  Despite leaving Florida to move to Wisconsin, Hannah maintains her bossy big sister role with regular phone calls to keep up with all the little sister shenanigans. Notoriously chatty with her patients as well, Hannah stays busy as a physical therapist, but loves spending weekends exploring newfound hikes.


Categories
europe

Four Days in Iceland: The Fire and Ice Stopover Itinerary

The land of fire and ice! For being a relatively small country in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, Iceland has an impressive array of sights to behold. From fjords to volcanos to waterfalls to beaches and all the glaciers in between, the topographic variety here is truly astounding. This is quite the dream vacation locale for anyone that thrives on outdoor exploration adventures. Four days in Iceland will give you a taste of the grandiose and fantastic landscapes this beautiful country is known for.

IcelandAir allows travelers to add a 1-7 day stopover in Iceland to their trip, without any additional fees. This is an amazing opportunity to explore two places for the cost of one… at least regarding airfare. So much to see and so little time… or rather so little PTO (is there ever enough?!) While a stop-over of any length is going to be an amazing experience, we’d suggest trying to squeeze in a four day stay. This is enough time to allow you a robust snapshot of the country and a little buffer for your arrival/departure, while still leaving you time to explore your final destination.

Where To Go? 

Perhaps it’s a bit of a hot take, but if you only have four days in Iceland, we recommend skipping Reykjavik, Iceland’s capital and biggest city, in favor of more time exploring the raw, natural beauty of Iceland. While there’s awesome culture, food, and sights in the city, what makes Iceland truly unique is outside the city limits. 

If you’re looking into traveling to Iceland, you’re bound to read about the Ring Road eventually. While four days is plenty of time to capture a glimpse of Iceland’s charm, it’s a bit tight to try and traverse Ring Road in its entirety. As such, we’ve outlined four amazing days out exploring the south and southeast pockets of the country. This part of Iceland has such a dense accumulation of amazing sights. The perfect way to maximize your time!

How To Get There

We just returned from Iceland (check out our ten day Ring Road itinerary here) and, we’re already excited to go back! While I love tent camping and the occasional backpacking trip, I can’t say I’m quite as outdoorsy as my raised-in-the-wilderness-of-Oregon husband (he’s actually from Portland, but spent an above-average amount of time wilderness adventuring). As such, I was a little nervous about committing to van life, but it was all for nothing!! The vans are intuitively designed, the bed was surprisingly comfy, the toilets and showers in the campgrounds were beyond satisfactory, and we ate such yummy meals!

What’s better than exploring, getting a little lost, savoring the hot springs, hiking it out, and and just plain gasping at all the scenic drives??? If you’re one the fence about committing, JUST DO IT!!

Renting a Van

Where to even begin? Ecotourism has exploded in Iceland and with it so has the converted campervan industry. How do you know which one to choose? Who includes all of the things you want and need? Is an airport shuttle included? How much space do you need?

The why

Before we even get into the nitty gritty, why rent a van in Iceland? Why not just drive around and get hotel rooms? So many reasons! First and foremost, Iceland is big spendy. Even a ~budget~ trip can get expensive quickly! Renting a car plus getting hotel rooms is almost certainly going to add up to more than the cost of the rental van. An added money-saving bonus is that meals out add up quickly too, so having your own kitchen allows you the opportunity to make food instead of eating out for every meal. You don’t want to blow your whole budget on the stopover!

The second reason would be the flexibility. Before we left, I spent hours and hours scouring blogs, reading Iceland travel books, checking Instagram accounts, etc. trying to craft the perfect itinerary… and we still shot from the hip and changed plans the day of more than once to do something different. When you’re just driving to a campground, it’s nice to be able to have that ability to change your mind.

Anyone that’s done much camping will already know where I’m headed with reason number three here… the VIEWS! While it’s not quite the same as backpacking to a remote alpine lake, there’s a handful of the campsites that are so amazing, and you just wouldn’t get the same view with a hotel. Our favorite campsite was actually in a location that just had camping options— 45 min from the closest hotel, so in order to truly enjoy this place you had to be all in.

The who

We spent extensive time comparing different van rental companies, and as such I feel pretty confident recommending Happy Campers! Not only was everything in the van exactly as advertised, but the customer service was excellent.

The other things that swung us to Happy Camper were a collection of smaller perks… all the overnight bedding was included as were the gas cooking canisters. Our rental included our pick up and return to the airport as well as a wifi transponder and GPS for use throughout the entirety of the trip! We were sooooo pleased with our experience.

four days in Iceland via a Happy Camper van
the What

You may be thinking how big of a van do I need? Is four wheel drive (4WD) necessary? The very frustrating answer is… it depends! If you’re visiting in the summer months, you can traverse the ring road, and more specifically everything on this itinerary, in a 2WD vehicle without any issue. Some people really prefer to pull away from the crowds and would rather sacrifice more popular stops for some F-road exploration. F-roads are roads in Iceland that you MUST have a 4WD to explore due to the road conditions you may encounter. One could also argue that during a 4 day trip, there’s enough to see accessible via 2WD vehicle that a 4WD van isn’t reaaaally necessary.

Now, visiting in the winter is a whole other dealio. We drove on roads in Iceland that had us thinking… if this isn’t an F-road, what do the F-roads look like?!?! Now, if we were encounter some of those same roads in the middle of winter with ice and snow on the road, I would definitely want a vehicle with 4WD. Even friends that visited a couple months ahead of us in May woke up to snow one day and were glad they had a car with a little extra oomph!

go big or go home

Now to the important question… which van size are you going to go for? While there’s loads of different companies, they all more or less offer different spins on the same vans. We opted for Happy Camper’s Happy 2 – 3 Pax rendition of a Renault Trafic van. Having never lived the #VanLife before, I was worried about feeling crammed in one of the smaller WV Caddy, Renault Kangoo, or Dacia Dokker sized-vans.

I wanted us to have enough space that we could enjoy ourselves during our trip and I wasn’t constantly needing to re-arrange things. I also didn’t want to feel like Salvador and I were too on top of one another. Nothing ruins a vacation adventure like getting sick of each other halfway through… but it would potentially be easier to just make it work for a couple days as opposed to if you were van-living for a week or more. 

I’ll be honest, I casually scoped out the smaller vans, and I’m very glad we decided to punch up to the bigger version. While we certainly could have made it work, I think it was a bit more enjoyable experience for both of us to have the extra space. PLUS Salvador was 2 weeks out from an ankle surgery, and I don’t always have the best body awareness, so the extra room helped us avoid any nefarious ~whoopsie daisy~ situations.

There are bigger vans you can rent as well, but I subjectively think it’s a bit more space than you need– especially if you’re just visiting for a few days. That being said, everyone’s space vs cost desire is different!

Fast & Furious

Be aware of your surroundings as you’re driving. This is always true, but in Iceland there are cameras set up to catching speeding travelers. These speeding tickets are so easy to avoid because all of the speed check cameras have a sign posted about a quarter mile ahead that warns you of the upcoming situation. Most of the cameras are in the south part of the island as you approach/depart Reykjavik. Up in the north, near Akureyri, you’ll find an uptick as well. Nothing to stress about, but good to be aware of— no one wants to find out they got a ticket 1 month later.

Cash Out

Unlike many other European countries, you can really get through a whole trip to Iceland without needing any cash. Some of the shower machines at campsites requires 100 ISK coins; however, the campsites will almost always just charge you evenly for these coins when you pay for your nights stay. Gas stations can be a little finicky and might make you pay with a debit card (pin required), but there’s no real need to hit up an ATM or exchange for cash before you leave.

Fast & Furious

Be aware of your surroundings as you’re driving. This is always true, but in Iceland there are cameras set up to catching speeding travelers. These speeding tickets are so easy to avoid because all of the speed check cameras have a sign posted about a quarter mile ahead that warns you of the upcoming situation. Most of the cameras are in the south part of the island as you approach/depart Reykjavik. Up in the north, near Akureyri, you’ll find an uptick as well. Nothing to stress about, but good to be aware of— no one wants to find out they got a ticket 1 month later.

DAY ONE 

First and foremost, gotta pick up the van…or rental car! This might take a little longer than you expect, so be sure to leave yourself some wiggle room. Today will be about six hours of drive time, but it’s such a beautiful drive, the time really does fly by. 

When you’re arriving from the United States, many of the flights seem to be evening flights, which typically means a morning arrival in Iceland. Pack a comfy neck pillow, your best eye mask, and some ear plugs for good measure, to help ensure you catch a couple winks of sleep on the flight. While this can sometimes be a kick-in-the-pants way to start the day, it makes for an awesome way to maximize your arrival day. 

If you do decide to rent a campervan, perhaps the most convenient perk is that your bed and your car are one in the same. This means that if you’re tired and need a one hour power nap, you can pull over into a parking lot and pass out for a bit (this is do-able in a sleepy-girl-pinch, but overnight camping should always be done in a campground).

Once your sleep tank is full, stop by the grocery store to stock up on a couple days worth of snacks. 

Drive time: 6 hours 

Diamond Beach 

It’s a bit of long haul out here, but you’ll be allll about the stops as you weave your way back. This beach earns its sparkling name from the small chunks of glacier ice that wash up on the shore… sorry, no gem hunting here! Not only is it rather different to see an icy beach, but the mountainous backdrop is unforgettably beautiful as well.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is actually just on the opposite side of the road as Diamond Beach. You can keep your car parked where it is and just wander under the bridge. The lagoon is chock-a-block full of icebergs from the Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier. The ever-changing collection of icebergs is like a mural come to life with the poignant shades of blue and the dark ribbons of ash, serving as a reminder of past eruptions.

the most amazing glacier lagoon just off ring road

I mean, if you’re looking for a fun place to take a photo for your pregnancy announcement, this certainly isn’t a bad spot! 🙂

Fjallsárlón Glacier Lagoon

Yet another amazing stop that a photo just can’t do justice to. It’s wild to think you can see this massive glacier from Ring Road and can take a short hike to witness it up close and personal. Or at least pretty close. The glacier slopes down to meet the lagoon, so you can wander to the edge of the lagoon and take in the magnificence of the dynamic duo.

Vatnajökull National Park — Skaftafell Nature Reserve 

Not only is this a beautiful pocket of the national park to explore, but it’s also where we recommend camping for the night. The perk of rolling into your campsite a bit earlier in the day means you can hopefully snag a top notch spot. Once you’re all situated, you can set out on a hike or two. The Svartifoss Waterfall trail (2 miles) and Skaftafellsjökull Glacier trail (3 miles) are two awesome hikes to sample the area. 

Outside of the hiking exploration, the campsite itself was one of our favorites. Your camping fee for the night includes toilets, plenty of sinks for cleaning dishes, hot showers (with lots of stalls for showering!!), AND a washer and dryer.

This may not seem like a huge deal, but it’s über convenient. Many of the campgrounds we visited either had no washer/dryer *or* just a washer, no dryer— almost always for a fee. You’re unlikely to have any laundry to do if you’re stopping in Iceland on your way TO your final destination; however, if you’re on your way home, it might be nice to wash a few things while dinner cooks! 

You just can’t beat supper with a view!!!

DAY TWO 

The best part about a four day trip is that every day is going to be shockingly amazing. Today might just bring you the most astounding collection of views. From a jaw-dropping canyon to a puffin-filled beach to the BEST campsite you’ll ever visit, day two is almost guaranteed to be unforgettable. 

Drive time: about 3 hours

Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon

This picturesque canyon isn’t far off of Ring Road, but it’s worth the stop! From the parking lot, there’s a ~2 mile out and back trail that provides a few different opportunities to peer into the canyon, and you’ll want to take all the glimpses you can get! The Fjaðrá River winds its way through the steep canyon, with a couple of striking waterfalls making an appearance as well. We happened to pass through on a rather drizzly day, and it was still so amazing!!

A little pop culture fun fact for all the ‘Beliebers’ out there, Justin Bieber filmed his “I’ll Show You” music video here.

Reynisfjara Beach

This is another groovy black sand beach but the sand isn’t necessarily what draws in visitors. The tall basalt columns that line the shore make this beachy keen spot rather iconic. As a bonus, you might be able to see some wild puffins here! When we visited, there were dozens of puffins hanging out on the top of the rocks along the beach.

Dyrholaey Arch

You can spot the Dyrholaey Arch from afar at the Reynisfjara Beach or go investigate up close and personal. If you didn’t catch a glimpse of any puffins at Reynisfjara Beach, you might find some here!

Þakgil Campground

While there’s loads of lovely campsites in Iceland, Þakgil is the best!!!!!! Imagine this: waking up to see lush green mountains divided by a sparkling stream, right outside your campervan. It is so very worth going out of your way for. Located about 45 minutes off of the ring road, it’s not the most economical for time, but you’re getting so much more than just a place to park your car for the night! 

Does it seem like today’s itinerary is a little light? That’s because Þakgil isn’t just a campground— it’s also a trailhead. So be sure to arrive with time to hike it out! There’s an amazing 9-10 mile all-day hike the treks out to a glacier, or a more palatable 2.5 mile hike that makes for a perfect evening walk. When you look up trails for Pakgil, you’ll find people generally talking about the red, yellow, and purple trails; however, when we visited (summer 2023) , the red trail was closed and there was a fairly new blue trail available to explore.

Since Salvador was unable to go hiking and the general nature of this area is that it’s a bit more remote, I abstained from solo-Han hiking out to the glacier and decided to save that for a future Iceland adventure. You’ll quickly find out this place embodies the kind of natural beauty that’s not only worth going out of your way for but worth coming back for!! Even if you can’t do a long hike, I can confirm the blue trail afforded some amazing vistas.

But will I make it???

Reading google reviews can leave you in such a tailspin. The road to get to Pakgil is certainly laden with potholes and a couple blind hills/corners, so drivers should plan to take it slowly. That being said, it was totally totally doable to make the journey in a 2WD van. It was even a drizzly morning the day we drove in (i.e. not the most dry, perfect conditions), and we never felt unsafe!

Also, despite being rather ~out there~ this campground still had everything you might need for an evening of camping fun. Hot showers, toilets, a wash station, and even a cool covered eating area in a cave!

DAY THREE

The theme song for today is all about chasing waterfalls… with an adventurous snorkeling detour. Not only does the day start with a behemoth of a fall, but you’ll get to hike it out on a trail full of amazing waterfalls. From very popular to off-the-beaten-path, today’s the day to explore them all!

Drive time: 6 hours 

Skógafoss

There’s a handful of must-see waterfalls in Iceland, and Skógafoss is certainly one of them. Not only is it beautifully immense, but you can appreciate it up close and personal. We were super lucky and didn’t encounter much rain when we were in Iceland, but it was worth packing our rain jacket and rain pants to get close enough to feel allllll the waterfall mist.

Fimmvörðuháls hike

The Fimmvörðuháls hike is a rather long hike. It’s possible to complete in a single day if you’re feeling frisky and very prepared, but it’s also very commonly backpacked by people. Stretching a total of 16 miles and tackling over 4,000 ft of elevation, this point to point trail highlights various terrains in the Icelandic backcountry. Think endless waterfalls, desolate lava fields, dramatic glaciers, and lush vistas. If you consider yourself even a casual hiker, doing at least part of this trail is a must!

The first 4-5 miles of the Fimmvörðuháls trail is known as Waterfall Way, which makes it a perfect stretch for anyone hesitant to commit to 16 miles of terrain. We’d originally discussed tackling this hike together; however, with Salvador out for the count, I solo hiked about 2 miles out and back to get a glimpse of the glorious trail. It did not disappoint!! 

The trail is super easy to find, because it starts at Skógafoss. There’s a ~400 step ascent to the top of the waterfall, and once you’re done checking out the waterfall from a bird’s eye view, you just keep following the trail until you feel ready to turn around… or until you get to Basar! 

GullFoss

This will be the last big time waterfall on the itinerary, so take her in, in all her grandeur! It’s a short walk from the parking lot, down a flight of stairs to the prime viewing area. There’s actually enough of a path that you can wander down and see Gullfoss from a few different vantage points. You’ll want to have your rain jacket to brave the spray… and leave behind any accessories that might blow away easily. 

Geysir Geothermal

Have you ever seen a geyser before? If not, here’s your chance! The Geysir Geothermal area is actually home to a few geysers, but most of them stay pretty dormant. Strokkur is the exception, with eruptions occurring every few minutes. It’s such a wild experience to watch the ground bubble up and then turbulently erupt!

Thingvellir National Park

Onto the last Icelandic National Park: Thingvellir! This UNESCO World Heritage Site has both geographic and historical significance, earning it the prestigious designation.

The Silfra Fissure runs through Thingvellir National Park, and tour guide services, like Arctic Adventures, will suit you up and guide you through this underwater world of mystery. The water is exceptionally clear with visibility over 100 meters. The Silfra Fissure is aptly named as it is the space between Eurasian and North American tectonic plates. This makes Silfra one of the only places in the world where you can go snorkeling along a continental rift!

We had heard from friends that this is a must-do adventure; however, for us, this snorkeling trip was unfortunately a casualty of the itinerary tweaks we made after Salvador had surgery. Believe it or not, submerging a healing incision and kicking around for an hour is highly discouraged 2 weeks out from an Achilles tendon repair. We’re already excited to dive in whenever we return!

Once you’re all dried off, take those legs for a nice, easy hike to Öxarárfoss. There’s a couple different parking lots to choose from, which will affect how far you hike, but generally speaking, it’s a pretty flat hike that takes you to a lovely waterfall. Don’t be a waterfall snob after all the grandeur you’ve seen thus far! It may not be the largest or most powerful fall of the trip, but this waterfall makes for a lovely perch to take in the unique topography and geography in this region of the country. 

Bring It Back Around 

While there is a campsite in Thingvellir National Park, we actually recommend just finishing your loop and heading all the way back to Keflavik. It makes for 3 medium-to-rather-full drive days, but the upside is that your final day in Iceland will involve virtually no driving. We stayed in the Vogar Campground in Keflavik, which was only 10 minutes from our van rental company. This made everything run super smoothly on our drop-off day, so this is our personal recommendation. The most amazing thing about renting a van is that you can change your mind and switch up your plans a million times over… it’s amazing not to be tied to a hotel reservation or specific plan. 

DAY FOUR

After powering through three days of Iceland’s most amazing sights, sounds, and smells, the vibe for today is complete relaxation! Iceland is known for its a etherial hot springs, and the crowning jewel is the one and only Blue Lagoon. 

BLUE LAGOON

Visiting Blue Lagoon is an activity best planned in advance. Due to its popularity, it’s highly recommended to purchase your tickets as soon as you cement your plans. Your ticket is for a specific window of time on a given day. Days and times will sell out— especially in the summer, so look early to ensure you have top pick!

When visiting for the day, you have a couple options for your day’s experience. The pricing for each of these levels of is dynamic and can fluctuate slightly across days of the week. You’ll also find that some times of day are more expensive than others. Generally speaking ‘premium’ will be slightly more expensive than ‘comfort’, with the ‘luxury’ being a more size-able jump in price. Family activities can add up quickly, but at Blue Lagoon children 13 and under enjoy free admission. The saved pennies can go towards all the snacks little people eat!

COMFORTPREMIUMLUXURY
Includes:
– Entrance to the Blue Lagoon
– Silica mud mask
– Use of a towel
– 1st drink of your choice
Includes:
– Entrance to the Blue Lagoon
– Silica mud mask + two additional masks of your choice
– Use of a towel
– 1st drink of your choice
– Use of bathrobe
– 1 glass of sparkling wine if dining at Lava restaurant
Includes:
– Five luxurious hours at the Retreat Spa
– Includes a private changing suite
– Unlimited access to both the Retreat Lagoon and the Blue Lagoon (and all the extra luxe amenities in the Retreat center)
example of the dynamic pricing
Replenishing the energy stores

You really can spend all day here… some morning relaxation followed by a delicious lunch and then back into the hot springs you go. Where to eat? You won’t find a food court here, that’s for sure. There’s a cafe with both dining-in and take-away options as well as three restaurants— all serving fresh, locally sourced ingredients and unforgettable views. While the food is bound to be good wherever you end up, they do have a Michelin-starred establishment, heralded for its gourmet revelations. This is a recent accomplishment as the Moss Restaurant just received their Michelin-star in 2023! It’s easy to make a reservation online when you book your admission ticket.

Take off

At the end of the day, it’s time to pack up and head home… all the way back home! Blue Lagoon is only ~20 minutes away from the airport, so it’s beyond easy to store your bags while you’re relaxing, shower off, and then jetset off for home. It’s always amazing just how quickly ten days flies by!

We were quite the unlucky pair for Blue Lagooning— one pregnant belly and one fresh ankle surgery/incision meant we had to skip this bucket list attraction; however, we already know we’ll be back one day to enjoy all the mud masks and steamy warmth.

So long, farewell

Iceland is beyond magnificent with its cornucopia of astounding natural beauty. To compare it to other places we’ve been, we found Iceland to be a rather unexpected combination of Hawaii meets Alaska?? Strangely enough. But anyways, we hope you enjoy your four days in Iceland adventure, and we wish you all the most exhilarating explorations as you venture out.

If a picture’s worth a thousand words, how many is a video worth??? Here’s a short video recap of some of our favorite sights… pick Iceland, chose Iceland— you won’t regret it for a second! Happy travels!


written by Hannah 

Hannah has learned the hard way to be careful what you wish for— sometimes happily ever after lands you with a husband and puppy… in the Midwest.  Despite leaving Florida to move to Wisconsin, Hannah maintains her bossy big sister role with regular phone calls to keep up with all the little sister shenanigans. Notoriously chatty with her patients as well, Hannah stays busy as a physical therapist, but loves spending weekends exploring newfound hikes.


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europe

Ten Amazing Days on Ring Road: Iceland by Campervan

The land of fire and ice! For being a relatively small country in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, Iceland has an impressive array of sights to behold. From fjords to volcanos to waterfalls to beaches and all the glaciers in between, the topographic variety here is truly astounding. This is quite the dream vacation locale for anyone that thrives on outdoor exploration adventures. You’ll have the experience of a lifetime driving along Iceland’s circumferential highway: Ring Road.

Ring Road is an 820 mile or 1322 km long highway that connects most of the towns and cities in the more populated regions of the country. Besides being important for country infrastructure, it makes for a perfect highlight reel to anyone looking to see the country in a weeklong (or in our case ten day) snapshot. Ring Road circles the island, making it the perfect foundation for road trip travel. Follow the often-paved-but-also-rather-gravel-y road for all the unforgettable views and memories. We’ve cultivated the perfect ten day itinerary for your Icelandic campervan road trip!

We just returned from Iceland and, we’re already excited to go back! What’s better than exploring, getting a little lost, savoring the hot springs, hiking it out, and and just plain gasping at all the scenic drives??? While I love tent camping and the occasional backpacking trip, I can’t say I’m quite as outdoorsy as my raised-in-the-wilderness-of-Oregon husband (he’s actually from Portland, but spent an above-average amount of time wilderness adventuring). As such, I was a little nervous about committing to over a week of van life, but it was all for nothing!! The vans are intuitively designed, the bed was surprisingly comfy, the toilets and showers in the campgrounds were beyond satisfactory, and we ate such yummy meals!

If you’re one the fence about committing, JUST DO IT!!

collecting camping passes for the virtual scrapbook <3
Renting a Van

Where to even begin? Ecotourism has exploded in Iceland and with it so has the converted campervan industry. How do you know which one to choose? Who includes all of the things you want and need? Is an airport shuttle included? How much space do you need?

The why

Before we even get into the nitty gritty, why rent a van in Iceland? Why not just drive around and get hotel rooms? So many reasons! First and foremost, Iceland is big spendy. Even a ~budget~ trip can get expensive quickly! Renting a car plus getting hotel rooms is almost certainly going to add up to more than the cost of the rental van. An added money-saving bonus is that meals out add up quickly too, so having your own kitchen allows you the opportunity to make food instead of eating out for every meal.

The second reason would be the flexibility. Before we left, I spent hours and hours scouring blogs, reading Iceland travel books, checking Instagram accounts, etc. trying to craft the perfect itinerary… and we still shot from the hip and changed plans the day of more than once to do something different. When you’re just driving to a campground, it’s nice to be able to have that ability to change your mind.

Anyone that’s done much camping will already know where I’m headed with reason number three here… the VIEWS! While it’s not quite the same as backpacking to a remote alpine lake, there’s a handful of the campsites that are so amazing, and you just wouldn’t get the same view with a hotel. Our favorite campsite was actually in a location that just had camping options— 45 min from the closest hotel, so in order to truly enjoy this place you had to be all in.

The who

We probably spent almost as much time exploring all of the various car-camping options as we did planning the trip… not joking quite as much as I wish I was. Due to the extent of reconnaissance we did, I feel pretty confident recommending Happy Campers as a van rental company! Not only was everything in the van exactly as advertised, but the customer service was excellent.

Three weeks before we were supposed to arrive, we reached out to see if there were any automatic vehicles available in their fleet. We’d originally rented a manual van and planned to have Salvador drive the whole way, BUT plans changed when he tore his right Achilles. He ended up having surgery exactly two weeks before we left, and I had never driven a manual transmission a day of my life. The gravel-y rolling hills of Iceland did not seem like the most ideal place to learn.

Even though we didn’t see anything available on their website, we emailed Happy Camper to see if there would be any way to switch over to an automatic van, and by golly, they were able to finagle the fleet and make it happen.

The other things that swung us to Happy Camper were a collection of smaller perks… all the overnight bedding was included as were the gas cooking canisters. Our rental included our pick up and return to the airport as well as a wifi transponder and GPS for use throughout the entirety of the trip! We were sooooo pleased with our experience.

the What

You may be thinking how big of a van do I need? Is four wheel drive (4WD) necessary? The very frustrating answer is… it depends! If you’re visiting in the summer months, you can traverse the ring road in a 2WD vehicle without any issue. Some people really prefer to pull away from the crowds and would rather sacrifice more popular stops for some F-road exploration. F-roads are roads in Iceland that you MUST have a 4WD to explore due to the road conditions you may encounter. One could also argue that during a 7-14 day trip, there’s enough to see in Iceland accessible via 2WD vehicle that a 4WD van isn’t reaaaally necessary.

Now, visiting in the winter is a whole other dealio. We drove on roads in Iceland that had us thinking… if this isn’t an F-road, what do the F-roads look like?!?! Now, if we were encounter some of those same roads in the middle of winter with ice and snow on the road, I would definitely want a vehicle with 4WD. Even friends that visited a couple months ahead of us in May woke up to snow one day and were glad they had a car with a little extra oomph.

go big or go home

Now to the important question… which van size are you going to go for? While there’s loads of different companies, they all more or less offer different spins on the same vans. We opted for Happy Camper’s Happy 2 – 3 Pax rendition of a Renault Trafic van. Having never lived the #VanLife before, I was worried about feeling crammed in one of the smaller WV Caddy, Renault Kangoo, or Dacia Dokker sized-vans.

I wanted us to have enough space that we could enjoy ourselves during our trip and I wasn’t constantly needing to re-arrange things. I also didn’t want to feel like Salvador and I were too on top of one another. Nothing ruins a vacation adventure like getting sick of each other halfway through!

I’ll be honest, I casually scoped out the smaller vans, and I’m very glad we decided to punch up to the bigger version. While we certainly could have made it work, I think it was a bit more enjoyable experience for both of us to have the extra space. PLUS Salvador was 2 weeks out from an ankle surgery, and I don’t always have the best body awareness, so the extra room helped us avoid any nefarious ~whoopsie daisy~ situations.

There are bigger vans you can rent as well, but I subjectively think it’s a bit more space than you need, but everyone’s space vs cost desire is different!

Fast & Furious

Be aware of your surroundings as you’re driving. This is always true, but in Iceland there are cameras set up to catching speeding travelers. These speeding tickets are so easy to avoid because all of the speed check cameras have a sign posted about a quarter mile ahead that warns you of the upcoming situation. Most of the cameras are in the south part of the island as you approach/depart Reykjavik. Up in the north, near Akureyri, you’ll find an uptick as well. Nothing to stress about, but good to be aware of— no one wants to find out they got a ticket 1 month later.

Cash Out

Unlike many other European countries, you can really get through a whole trip to Iceland without needing any cash. Some of the shower machines at campsites requires 100 ISK coins; however, the campsites will almost always just charge you evenly for these coins when you pay for your nights stay. Gas stations can be a little finicky and might make you pay with a debit card (pin required), but there’s no real need to hit up an ATM or exchange for cash before you leave.

When To Go

Iceland is going to be beautiful in every season. As the days get shorter and colder, the aurora borealis begins to return, which only adds to the mystic wonderland ambiance of the island. Summer brings nearly endless hours of daylight and more moderate temperatures. The drier and more mild Icelandic weather tends to drive tourism to the summer months.

After reading so extensively about how popular Iceland becomes in the summer, we were honestly expecting to encounter more people on the road and whilst we were out adventuring. I don’t want to mislead anyone, parking lots will fill up and trails will be well traveled, but we never ran into any issues where we were unable to find a parking spot or go where we’d planned because of a crowing issue.

You can catch snow in Iceland as early as October or as late as May, so if you’re trying to avoid any snowy situations, I’d recommend planning your trip outside that time window. Since the fellow traveler situation wasn’t too crazy and the weather was rather perfect while we visited, we’re big champions of an early to mid-July visit! June or August would be rather lovely as well.

Chow Time

Food stays a top priority for this hungry girl. If you’re already thinking “what am I going to make for 10 days?”, have no fear. Cooking in the van really wasn’t that different than cooking on a stove at home. Our camp stove was build right into the internal structure of the van… it was almost like we had a mini kitchen!

Before we left, we packed a small container of Lawry’s seasoning salt and a lemon pepper I just snagged from Target. These were clutch to have for all of our cooking endeavors.

Breakfast

We kept breakfast pretty simple. I’m used to eating protein bars for breakfast, so I packed enough of those to last our whole trip. Salvador would usually have a yogurt or Skyr (Icelandic dairy product with the consistency of yogurt). He was also a big fan of some of the pre-made salmon sandwiches available in the grocery store. That made for an easy breakfast (or lunch) as well.

LUNCH

I won’t be winning any awards for creativity here… we ate the same thing for lunch almost every single day, but it was good! We maintained a stock of fresh bread, eggs, sliced turkey, and tomatoes in the cooler, so every day for lunch we had a delicious egg sandwich. It was a perfect combination of being nutritiously balanced and fresh!

You really just need a pan and spatula for this, so it doesn’t take long or create many dishes. This is key when you’re living out of the van day in and day out!

Dinner

Chef Salvador had full rein in the camper-van kitchen, and he served up some YUMMY meals. A few of our favorites include:

  • Lamb Macaroni & Cheese
  • Spaghetti and Chicken breast with a side of sliced bread
  • Tacos
  • Chicken with Pasta salad
  • Lamb chops and salad

This obviously isn’t the most innovative list of meals you’ve ever seen, but don’t think campervan means you’ll be eating freeze-dried dinners for a week! We also ate out a couple times as well, which was not only tasty, but a nice reprieve from dishes. 🙂

The Highlight Reel

If a picture’s worth a thousand words, how many is a video worth??? Here’s a short video recap of some of our favorite sights… pick Iceland, chose Iceland— you won’t regret it for a second!

DAY 1 

First and foremost, gotta pick up the van! This might take a little longer than you expect, so be sure to leave yourself some wiggle room. There’s flexibility in the driving schedule because the total drive time for today is only around 4 hours, which is very doable.

We had an overnight flight arriving into Reykjavik, which I honestly thought would be perfect. We upgraded our seats, packed a comfy neck pillow, a tried and true eye mask, and threw in some ear plugs for good measure… only to sleep zero total minutes on the flight. As such I was full on crashing as we were supposed to be starting our drive.

The most insane perk of renting a camper van is that your bed and your car are one in the same, which means that if you’re tired and need a one hour power nap, you can pull over into a parking lot and pass out for a bit (this is do-able in a sleepy-girl-pinch, but overnight camping should always be done in a campground).

Once your sleep tank is full, stop by the grocery store to stock up on a few days worth of snacks. You’ll find spots in both Reykjavik and Borgarnes, so no need to stress about finding food. From there, it’s time to catch some views on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Drive time: approximately 4 hours

THE Raidfeldsgja Gorge

This gorge makes for a great place to stretch your legs out. It’s a short uphill walk from the parking area up to the entrance of the gorge, but it’s rather fun to hop along the rocks to further explore up into the gorge. Like most spots in Iceland, the pictures really don’t do it justice— don’t let this dissuade you. It’s a perfect first stop to take in the immense landscape up close and personal.

Arnarstapi Cliffs

Oh man, get ready to feel that ocean breeze on your face! This will be the first glimpse of the uniquely cool basalt columns found all over Iceland. This lava-rock-meets-the-ocean junction is not only beautiful but rather peaceful as well. There’s also a cliff walk you can wander over to if you feel like living life on the edge!

Hellnar viewpoint 

There’s loads of places to pull off and take in the coastline, but the one in Hellnar is especially picturesque. Not only is it fun to get out and see the landscape from different vantage points, but after a few hours of driving, hopping out every 20 minutes or so is kinda nice.

Snæfellsjökull National Park

Being that it’s the first day, there’s no crazy hikes on the agenda. That being said, if you’re keen on an afternoon saunter, Snæfellsjökull National Park is the perfect place to stop. Salvador’s recent Achilles surgery didn’t alter our itinerary a ton, but it did change how much hiking we did. The park has loads of amazing trails to check out— it’s a national park for a reason!

Djúpalónssandur Beach

Djúpalónssandur Beach is actually part of Snæfellsjökull National Park, so this may be a bit redundant… but if you only make one stop in the park, it should be here! The black sand beach is rather picturesque, and the overlook of the beach is quite accessible for those with mobility impairments. As an added treat, we saw an arctic fox here, which was pretty special!

Ólafsvík Campsite

Tonight, plan to bunk down at Ólafsvík Campsite. This lovely campsite includes the cost of showers, so if you’re feeling a bit mucky, here’s your chance to rinse off! The bathrooms are nice, the showers-to-campers ratio is perfect, and they also have free wifi available. While the campground is tucked away just off the road, the surrounding area is just perfectly picturesque.

There’s a little road that makes for a nice post-dinner walk. It showcases views of both the town of Ólafsvík as well as the endless stretch of ocean.

DAY 2 

There’s no two ways about it, today is the longest drive day of the trip… but better to get it over with early, while you’re still hopped up on that beginning-of-trip excitement! Get ready to be shocked at just how fast 80km/hr feels on a gravel road. We were rather surprised at just how many “main” roads are gravel… and rather pot-holey at that.

Drive time: about 6.5 hours

Kirkjufell Mountain 

Only 20 minutes down the road from the Ólafsvík Campsite is Kirkjufell Mountain and its neighboring waterfall. While there’s loads of massive, powerful waterfalls in Iceland, this one is exceptional because of the very picturesque waterfall-mountain combo. As a matter of fact, it’s become a rather iconic photo spot on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

It’s a pretty simple walk from the parking lot to the waterfall. If you’re in the mood to walk around more and stretch your legs before a longer stint in the car, there’s ample trail space!

Hvitserkur

Oh man, if unique rock formations really tickle your fancy, this rhino is worth bumping out for, butttttt this is actually the only thing we did on our trip that we *wouldn’t* necessarily recommend. When we were there, you couldn’t get down to the beach, and he was honestly a little smaller than we expected, observing him from afar. So please enjoy this picture. Take it in and shave off the 45-60 minutes it would add to your day’s drive time!

An interesting bit of Icelandic folklore, some of the various rock formations found around the island are said to be trolls that were forever frozen in time. What do you think? Cheeky troll? Or rock eroded with time? I suppose we’ll never really know!

Hofsós Swimming Pool

Where to go instead? The Hofsós swimming pool! While we ended up omitting this stop (minimal pool and hot spring hopping since Salvador had a surgical incision we were trying to keep dry), it came highly recommended to us by a friend that visited a few years back! The pool is kept nice and warm and offers views overlooking the fjords… if you’re lucky, you might just see puffins or whales swimming by!!!

AkuREyri — Systragil campground

The Systragil Campground makes for a quiet spot to bunk down for the evening. While it was one of the smaller facilities we visited (two bathrooms, one shower), there was also a small playground for little kids to enjoy. It also still has a nice shelter to cook in and an area to clean off your dishes. Showers are an extra fee and so is use of the washing machine. Beware though, there’s no dryer, so everything would need to air dry! Besides the facilities, there’s a lovely little waterfall nearby, which is fun to go check out before you hit the road again.

DAY 3 

Iceland’s geography is impressive for so many reasons, but the range of landscapes to be seen on this small, island country will truly blow you away. From astounding waterfalls to Mars-esque lava fields, you will continue to feel amazed by the vast nature scenery. After yesterday’s long haul, today’s zippy little drive will feel like nothing— especially since it’s broken up by the stops!

Drive time: approximately 1.5 hours

Godafoss

Iceland is practically the land of waterfalls, but there’s a handful in the country that are extraordinarily spectacular. Godafoss is certainly one of them!! It’s always humbling to witness the power of a waterfall, and this one is no exception. From your overlook perch at the top of the falls you can take it in with a birds eye view, but there’s also a path that brings you down to a pool at the bottom of the falls (from the East bank side).

There’s actually two parking lots— east and west— which both lead to paved trails that provide two similar yet slightly different views. We kinda preferred the east, but with Godafoss being so mighty, it’s hard to pick which vantage point is best!

pseudocraters of Mývatn

The pseudocraters are fun to spot, and the walking path along Mývatn Lake is a nice way to take in the scenery from a few different perspectives and viewing platforms. This hike/walk isn’t too long but makes for a nice length to stretch your legs out.

Dimmuborgir lava field

The expanse of lava is such a stark contrast to the previous lakeside views. This spot really is a choose-your-own-adventure dealio because for anyone just looking to take in the vast lava field, there’s a viewing area, with various informational placards detailing the history of the area. You can also head down into the lava field and go hiking around. There’s a handful of different trails to explore as well as some cave dwellings to check out.

Hverfjall crater

As your driving to the crater parking lot, you may start to think… I’m climbing up the side of that?! But it actually went down easier than expected. Hiking up the crater is totally worth doing— both to see inside the crater itself but also for the panoramic views of Mývatn. Hiking up and all the way around the crater is about 3 miles, but even if you don’t have time for the whole circumferential journey, it’s worth it just to do part of it as an out and back!

Grjótagjá Cave

Look familiar to anyone? In season three, episode five of Game of Thrones, there was a scene filmed in this cave! This is an easy and low key stop (no more than 10 min), but the sparkling blue water is rather pretty. Plus it’s literally right along the way to the nature baths, so why not stop and check it out?!

Mývatn Nature Baths

Wowie wow wow… going to a hot spring in Iceland is a MUST! The Mývatn Nature Baths are so warm and relaxing, with spectacular views. You’ll find two large pools (one a bit warmer than the other) plus a rectangular hot tub for anyone looking to get extra toasty warm. There’s also a couple steam rooms to enjoy as well. They have a swim-up bar for all your libation needs as well as free pitchers of water placed around the pool area to ensure no one gets parched.

We put two Tegaderm patches on Salvador’s incision and hoped for the best as we embarked towards the pool. We actually used a wheelchair to help him get down the ramp without concern for slipping on any wet surfaces. As such, we can confirm that this hot spring nature bath is friendly to those with mobility impairments.

Just a heads up: before you get into any public pool or hot spring it is required to get naked and shower off. No need to bring your own soap though— they had some divine-smelling local products to use!

The 411

Pregnant women are discouraged spending too much time in hot springs so as not to excessively raise the core temperature; however, we were very very pleased to find out Mývatn Nature Baths had two pools— a warmer one that ranged from 37 to 39 degrees Celsius and a cooler one that ran 33 to 36 degrees Celsius (plus a third 40 degree Celsius ‘hot tub’). This was perfect because we were able to just hang out in the cooler (i.e. no warmer than body temp) pool without worrying about any damage to Sprout (he doesn’t have a name yet).

The ever iconic Blue Lagoon doesn’t have to same cooler vs warmer pool option, so if you’re pregnant and stressin’ about missing out on a hot spring adventure, this is a safer option for you to consider. Everyone’s body, baby, and health considerations are different, and our lived experience should never be used in lieu of a health care professional’s advice, BUT it’s always nice to know your options. 🙂

Vogafjós

Are you ready to take a little break from camper van cooking? This laid-back fine dining restaurant is the perfect spot to take your relaxed hot spring self. The farm to table ethos and historic recipes make this dinner more than worth the splurge. Everything they brought to the table left us wanting more… geysir bread that’s cooked underground using geothermal heat? YUM! The lamb shank and arctic char were clean-plate-club delectable, and the slice of cake had us ready to order another. If you only plan to eat out for a few meals, this should be one of them!!

Bjarg

Oh my goodness, just look at the picture below. What an amazingly beautiful campsite right on Lake Myvatn. There were toilets, a dish-washing station, and hot showers included in the camping fee. We found the facilities-to-campers ratio to be just right. We were so stoked to snag one of the last campervan spots facing out to the lake!!

DAY 4

This will be the second longest driving day, but man oh man is it amazing… and somehow doesn’t feel like too long of a drive day, because the drive time is broken up by adventurous stops and unforgettable views.

Drive time: about 6 hours

DETTIFOSS

Day four is off to a strong start, visiting one of the most powerful waterfalls in Europe. Dettifoss is in Vatnajökull National Park and the Vatnajökull glacier melt feeds its rushing waters. As you travel around the country it’s pretty amazing to get to experience so many waterfalls of such magnitude. Fun fact: the opening scene of the movie Prometheus features the one and only Dettifoss!

Stuðlagil Canyon

Oh man, when people ask “What was your favorite things you did in Iceland?” it’s such a hard question to answer because even just driving along ring road is such a visual delight. That being said, hiking down into Stuðlagil canyon and climbing around on the basalt columns definitely makes the top five memory moments. While the hike out isn’t anything too crazy, the columns and the canyon are just breathtaking. Being able to tinker around and explore down into the canyon makes it even better!! This is a must-do stop on your ring road itinerary!!!

There are two parking lots for this hike. One you will find initially, right before a bridge. If you keep driving down a rather pot-holey road (do-able in a campervan if you take it slow), you will find another parking lot, which is where we recommend parking. It does tend to fill up though, so it’s behoove of you to arrive sooner rather than later. Worst case scenario you’ll just end up tacking on an extra couple miles to your hike by leaving from the farther lot.

Poor Salvador got to hold down the fort in the van while I was out hiking and canyon rock climbing, BUT on the other side of the canyon, there’s an overlook. While this saves you the 3-4 mile hike, it’s still not the most mobility-impaired friendly as Salvador single leg hopped all the way down… and all the way back up! So so proud of him for being a trooper and powering through.

Rjúkandi Waterfall

What’s wild about the Rjúkandi Waterfall is that it’s literally just a side-of-the-road pit stop. Yup, right off ring road— no detour required. We actually flew right past it initially but thought it looked cool enough to double back for! It’s a short walk up to the falls and they really are lovely. This is an easy little 15-20 minute stop but worth it! Just another example of the immense natural beauty all over Iceland.

Höfn

On your way south, ring road bumps out along the coastline to trace the eastern fjords. While this is assuredly beautiful, we stayed more inland following 95 to 939, which provided us some of the most spectacular road-side views of the drive. Absolutely astounding topography that really leaves you struggling to keep your eyes on the road. Part of what makes this longer drive day fly by is that the drive itself feels like a treat!

Despite some pretty average Google reviews, we stayed at the campground in Höfn and found it to be perfectly amenable. Do you every read other people’s reviews and think that maybe, just maybe, someone had a little too high of expectations for a campground? This spot had two separate areas of bathrooms and showers (not included but pretty cheap) to accommodate all the campers as well as a covered area for cooking, eating, and washing up. They also had a washer and dryer here as well, but it seemed a little spendy at ~$7 per load per machine. But alas when your clothes are dirty, you gotta do what you gotta do!

We had actually been torn between staying here and at the Vestrahorn campground (only 20 minutes apart), but the grocery store 850 meters down the road from the Hofn campground was what tipped the scales this way. Not only was the campground solid, but the Netto was fab as well. We were rather surprised to see people flocking to snag their pastries in the morning like they were a hot commodity. Worth swinging by if you need to stock up on food!

DAY 5

After a longer day of driving, today’s 2 hours will seem like nothing— especially since a stop halfway through kinda breaks up the drive. As you come into this pocket of the country, the variety of dreamy landscapes is truly unmatched. The main showstoppers today will be glaciers, lagoons, and the might of an Icelandic national park. It’s such a unique experience to watch the topography change as you make your way down and around the island.

Drive time: approximately 2 hours

Diamond Beach 

This beach earns its sparkling name from the small chunks of glacier ice that wash up on the shore… sorry, no gem hunting here! Not only is it rather different to see an icy beach, but the mountainous backdrop is unforgettably beautiful as well.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is actually just on the opposite side of the road as Diamond Beach. You can keep your car parked where it is and just wander under the bridge. The lagoon is chock-a-block full of icebergs from the Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier. The ever-changing collection of icebergs is like a mural come to life with the poignant shades of blue and the dark ribbons of ash, serving as a reminder of past eruptions.

the most amazing glacier lagoon just off ring road

I mean, if you’re looking for a fun place to take a photo for your pregnancy announcement, this certainly isn’t a bad spot! 🙂

Fjallsárlón Glacier Lagoon

Yet another amazing stop that a photo just can’t do justice to. It’s wild to think you can see this massive glacier from ring road and can take a short hike to witness it up close and personal. Or at least pretty close. The glacier slopes down to meet the lagoon, so you can wander to the edge of the lagoon and take in the magnificence of the dynamic duo.

Vatnajökull National Park — Skaftafell Nature Reserve 

Not only is this a beautiful pocket of the national park to explore, but it’s also where we recommend camping for the night. The perk of rolling into your campsite a bit earlier in the day means you can hopefully snag a top notch spot. Once you’re all situated, you can set out on some hikes. The Svartifoss Waterfall trail (2 miles) and Skaftafellsjökull Glacier trail (3 miles) are two awesome hikes to sample the area. 

Outside of the hiking exploration, the campsite itself was one of our favorites. While it was the most expensive place we stayed, we felt it was more than worth the cost of admission. Your camping fee for the night includes toilets, plenty of sinks for cleaning dishes, hot showers (with lots of stalls for showering!!), AND a washer and dryer.

This may not seem like a huge deal, but it’s über convenient. Many of the campgrounds we visited either had no washer/dryer *or* just a washer, no dryer— almost always for a fee. After 5 days of frolicking around, you just might have a handful of things you’d be happy to see cleaned, so jump on the opportunity– might as well do it if you’ve already paid for it!

You just can’t beat dinner with a view!!!

DAY 6

Just when you thought it couldn’t get any better, Iceland brings you arguably your most astounding collection of views yet. From a jaw-dropping canyon to a puffin-filled beach to the most amazing campsite you’ll ever visit, day six just might be the best day of all.

Drive time: about 3 hours

Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon

This picturesque canyon isn’t far off of ring road, but it’s worth the stop! From the parking lot, there’s a ~2 mile out and back trail that provides a few different opportunities to peer into the canyon, and you’ll want to take all the glimpses you can get! The Fjaðrá River winds its way through the steep canyon, with a couple of striking waterfalls making an appearance as well. We happened to pass through on a rather drizzly day, and it was still so amazing!!

A little pop culture fun fact for all the ‘Beliebers’ out there, Justin Bieber filmed his “I’ll Show You” music video here.

Reynisfjara Beach

This is another groovy black sand beach but the sand isn’t necessarily what draws in visitors. The tall basalt columns that line the shore make this beachy keen spot rather iconic. As a bonus, you might be able to see some wild puffins here! When we visited, there were dozens of puffins hanging out on the top of the rocks along the beach.

Dyrholaey Arch

You can spot the Dyrholaey Arch from afar at the Reynisfjara Beach or go investigate up close and personal. If you didn’t catch a glimpse of any puffins at Reynisfjara Beach, you might find some here!

Þakgil Campground

While there’s loads of lovely campsites in Iceland, Þakgil is the best!!!!!! Imagine this: waking up to see lush green mountains divided by a sparkling stream, right outside your campervan. Is so very worth going out of your way for. Located about 45 minutes off of the ring road, it’s not the most economical for time, but you’re getting so much more than just a place to park your car for the night! 

Does it seem like today’s itinerary is a little light? That’s because Þakgil isn’t just a campground— it’s also a trailhead. So be sure to arrive with time to hike it out! There’s an amazing 9-10 mile all-day hike the treks out to a glacier, or a more palatable 2.5 mile hike that makes for a perfect evening walk. When you look up trails for Pakgil, you’ll find people generally talking about the red, yellow, and purple trails; however, when we visited (summer 2023) , the red trail was closed and there was a fairly new blue trail available to explore.

Since Salvador was unable to go hiking and the general nature of this area is that it’s a bit more remote, I abstained from solo-Han hiking out to the glacier and decided to save that for a future Iceland adventure. You’ll quickly find out this place embodies the kind of natural beauty that’s not only worth going out of your way for but worth coming back for!! Even if you can’t do a long hike, I can confirm the blue trail afforded some amazing vistas.

But will I make it???

Reading google reviews can leave you in such a tailspin. The road to get to Pakgil is certainly laden with potholes and a couple blind hills/corners, so drivers should plan to take it slowly. That being said, it was totally totally doable to make the journey in a 2WD van. It was even a drizzly morning the day we drove in (i.e. not the most dry, perfect conditions), and we never felt unsafe!

Also, despite being rather ~out there~ this campground still had everything you might need for an evening of camping fun. Hot showers, toilets, a wash station, and even a cool covered eating area in a cave!

DAY 7

The theme song for today is all about chasing waterfalls. Not only does the day start with a behemoth of a fall, but you’ll get to hike it out on a trail full of amazing waterfalls. From very popular to off-the-beaten-path, today’s the day to explore them all!

Drive time: about 3 hours

Skógafoss

There’s a handful of must-see waterfalls in Iceland, and Skógafoss is certainly one of them. Not only is it beautifully immense, but you can appreciate it up close and personal. We were super lucky and didn’t encounter much rain when we were in Iceland, but it was worth packing our rain jacket and rain pants to get close enough to feel allllll the waterfall mist.

Fimmvörðuháls hike

The Fimmvörðuháls hike is a rather long hike. It’s possible to complete in a single day if you’re feeling frisky and very prepared, but it’s also very commonly backpacked by people. Stretching a total of 16 miles and tackling over 4,000 ft of elevation, this point to point trail highlights various terrains in the Icelandic backcountry. Think endless waterfalls, desolate lava fields, dramatic glaciers, and lush vistas. If you consider yourself even a casual hiker, doing at least part of this trail is a must!

The first 4-5 miles of the Fimmvörðuháls trail is known as Waterfall Way, which makes it a perfect stretch for anyone hesitant to commit to 16 miles of terrain. We’d originally discussed tackling this hike together; however, with Salvador out for the count, I solo hiked about 2 miles out and back to get a glimpse of the glorious trail. It did not disappoint!!

The trail is super easy to find, because it starts at Skógafoss. There’s a ~400 step ascent to the top of the waterfall, and once you’re done checking out the waterfall from a bird’s eye view, you just keep following the trail until you feel ready to turn around… or until you get to Basar!

arbaejarfoss

This waterfall is a little more off the beaten path— like the parking lot only holds 4-5 cars. It’s a rather chill stop, but so peacefully beautiful! We plopped down on the grass, shared a snack, and enjoyed this little slice of nature without much else going on around us. Nothing too crazy but a perfect lovely moment to share— a perfect spot to relax and reflect on some of your favorite places you’ve been and the couple days left to go.

Ölverk Pizza & Brewery

After a week on the road, a hot meal you don’t have to cook yourself might be just what you need. With indoor and outdoor seating options, the ambiance was very relaxed, and the pizza was delicious! Salvador enjoyed the couple beers he had here as well, so we have nothing but strong recommendations to give. Treat yourself to a little pizza and beer!

Borg campground

Honest reviews only, this was probably the most boring campground we stayed at in regard to views and natural beauty, but it’s conveniently located— especially since we figured driving a little extra today means less driving tomorrow. The bathroom and shower situation was solid, and there was a nice spot to clean up dishes, so no complaints here! Really though, anywhere you stay after Pakgil will kiiiinda be a relative disappointment.

DAY 8

Today’s the day for some Golden Circle Highlights. The Golden Circle is an area of sights, not far from Reykjavik, that tends to be easy to access by car or tour group. Close enough to hit up on a day trip excursion. The proximity to Reykjavik means that it that tends to get a little more touristy and crowded but not overwhelmingly so.

Drive time: about 2.5 hours

GullFoss

This will be the last big time waterfall on the itinerary, so take her in, in all her grandeur! It’s a short walk from the parking lot, down a flight of stairs to the prime viewing area. There’s actually enough of a path that you can wander down and see Gullfoss from a few different vantage points. You’ll want to have your rain jacket to brave the spray… and leave behind any accessories that might blow away easily.

Geysir Geothermal

Have you ever seen a geyser before? If not, here’s your chance! The Geysir Geothermal area is actually home to a few geysers, but most of them stay pretty dormant. Strokkur is the exception, with eruptions occurring every few minutes. It’s such a wild experience to watch the ground bubble up and then turbulently erupt!

Thingvellir National Park

Onto the last Icelandic National Park: Thingvellir! This UNESCO World Heritage Site has both geographic and historical significance, earning it the prestigious designation.

The Silfra Fissure runs through Thingvellir National Park, and tour guide services, like Arctic Adventures, will suit you up and guide you through this underwater world of mystery. The water is exceptionally clear with visibility over 100 meters. The Silfra Fissure is aptly named as it is the space between Eurasian and North American tectonic plates. This makes Silfra one of the only places in the world where you can go snorkeling along a continental rift!

We had heard from friends that this is a must-do adventure; however, for us, this snorkeling trip was unfortunately a casualty of the itinerary tweaks we made after Salvador had surgery. Believe it or not, submerging a healing incision and kicking around for an hour is highly discouraged 2 weeks out from an Achilles tendon repair. We’re already excited to dive in whenever we return!

Once you’re all dried off, take those legs for a nice, easy hike to Öxarárfoss. There’s a couple different parking lots to choose from, which will affect how far you hike, but generally speaking, it’s a pretty flat hike that takes you to a lovely waterfall. Don’t be a waterfall snob after all the grandeur you’ve seen thus far! It may not be the largest or most powerful fall of the trip, but this waterfall makes for a lovely perch to take in the unique topography and geography in this region of the country.

Where to go next

We worked our way through the sights, sounds, and smells of Thingvellir National Park a little faster than we’d planned (perhaps because we were unable to go snorkeling :/ ). We felt like we’d sufficiently explored after a few hours, but not everyone might feel the same! There’s certainly more to see if you’re interested in some of the historical heritage aspects that earned it its UNESCO World Heritage designation. This is a total dealer’s choice opportunity. If you’re keen to see more of the historical roots in the park, spent the night in the Thingvellir campground! This was our original plan, but we decided to pivot and spend the evening near Reykjavik instead.

The essentials: ice cream & beer

While tomorrow will be a more thorough perusal of Reykjavik, tonight you can snag some well-earned treats. That’s right, during our time in Iceland I was doing the Lord’s work sampling all kinds of different chocolates, and I can say with confidence that OmNom makes the most amazingly tasty chocolate treats. You don’t have to swing by their shop to purchase one as they are available in grocery stores nationwide, BUT if you go to their store in Reykjavik, you can also sample some of their ice cream which was QUITE delish.

RVK Brewing Co. is another local treat-yo-self spot if you’re looking to enjoy an ice cold beer. It’s actually a little trickier to find than you’d expect (walk down the hill from the film stores), BUT they have a new taproom under construction, so hopefully that will make it an easier find for any future beer connoisseurs. Totally, totally worth making the effort to go check it out if you fancy craft beer.

Vogar Campground

Last night in the van!! While we originally thought we’d spend the night in Thingvellir National Park, it ended up being rather nice to snag a campsite along the water here. I mean, look at that sunset!!

The other bonus is that Vogar is only 10 minutes away from our rental company, Happy Campers. When we got up on day 9, re-packing our stuff, clearing our all the trash/recycling, and stopping to top off the gas tank weren’t the most time consuming processes ever but it did take longer than we initially expected. It was nice to know we didn’t have much of a drive to make it back to base camp.

DAY 9

You made it all the way around Ring Road! After a week of camp meals, the agenda for today is snacking your way through the city. That’s right, today is all about exploring Reykjavik.

Depending on when your van is due back, you can either drop off your van and catch a shuttle into Reykjavik or just drive that van into the city. The latter would certainly be the easier option, but we’ve laid out all the ways you can get yourself into the city for some Reykjavik sauntering around.

Drive time: depends on where you’re staying the night— it’s no more than 1.5 hours round trip from Keflavik to Reykjavik and back.

getting to Reykjavik

Once your van is returned, the question becomes… how does one get around? Uber, Lyft, Bolt, etc do not run here, and taxis are expensive. We’re talking ~$125 for a one way trip from Keflavik to Reykjavik. This will be the least cost effective but most time efficient way to make the journey. We returned out van early in the day, so we spent a little extra time to save some dollars.

Before returning our van, we dropped our bags off at our hotel because they very graciously agreed to hold them for us. We then returned the van and took Happy Camper’s free shuttle to the airport. From the airport, we hopped on the FlyBus shuttle that goes directly from the airport to a bus stop only a 5-10 minute walk from the general center of town. The FlyBus airport transfer still costs $30/person, so when comparing to a taxi, you save about $60… the more people you have in your party, you might just be better off taking a taxi!

On the way back we just rode a public transportation bus, which took a little bit longer, but was rather comfortable. At this point in the day Salvador’s ankle was aching so we didn’t really mind the longer journey. The bus stayed empty enough Salvador could keep his leg propped up, so we were big chillin’ just scrolling through the 177378498 pictures on our camera roll. Getting from Reykjavik back to our hotel took about an hour and fifteen minutes (~30 minutes longer than a taxi) and cost $17/person.

wandering around Reykjavik

Our plan for Reykjavik was to more or less wander around and just take in the city. We’re big fans of eating our way through a new place, and Reykjavik did not disappoint. By the time we got to town, I was I-want-food-right-now hungry, so we took a chance on 101 Reykjavik Street Food. This restaurant along the rainbow road keeps a pretty simple but delicious menu— comprised mostly of soups. We both snarfed down our lunch… plus the owner also brought us out a complimentary hot chocolate and a couple dessert to sample.

We headed to Kofinn next so Salvador could further sample the local craft beer scene. Turnabout is fair play, so after we finished there, we went to Saeta Husid for some rolled ice cream. I’d actually never tried ice cream quite this way before, but it was rather delectable. This is a pretty popular area, so there’s loads of fun shops and store to wander through as you walk around.

If you’re looking to grab another drink somewhere, head to Kaldi Bar! Not only were the beers deliciously refreshing, but the pub had quite the cozy ambiance as well. If you consider yourself a fearless eater, consider sampling the fermented shark at Cafe Loki. If this sounds terrible, that’s because it is!!!! It’s undigestible in its original form, so to become digestible, the shark must be fermented for 6 months. Salvador sampled some, but I didn’t feel so inclined.

Hallgrímskirkja is hard to miss as this eye-catching church is the tallest in the country. The organ-pipe-esque appearance is said to be designed in resemblance of the basalt columns found around the country. Hallgrímskirkja isn’t far from the center of Reykjavik, so this magnificent church won’t be hard to find!

Hotel Duus

Hotel Duus was perfectly situated close to the airport but also right along the harbor, so we ended the trip with an amazing bed and a marvelous view. An added bonus, Antons Mamma Mia is an above-averagely tasty spot just walking distance down the road. Good eats AND good sleeps… that’s what it’s all about. Especially by the end of the trip!

Their website isn’t the worst, but it’s also not the best ever… don’t let this dissuade you! When you’re looking to book a hotel near the airport do not just assume they will have a free airport shuttle. This doesn’t seem like a huge deal, but taxis are actually pretty spendy, even for short trips. Hotel Duus having the airport transfer included is a really nice perk.

DAY 10

After nine days of chock-a-block full days, the last day of the trip only has one stop: Blue Lagoon! Hands down the most infamous of all the hot springs in Iceland, the Blue Lagoon makes for a perfect relaxation station.

Drive time: no driving! just catching a taxi 🙂

BLUE LAGOON

Visiting Blue Lagoon is an activity best planned in advance. Due to its popularity, it’s highly recommended to purchase your tickets as soon as you cement your plans. Your ticket is for a specific window of time on a given day. Days and times will sell out— especially in the summer, so look early to ensure you have top pick!

When visiting for the day, you have a couple options for your day’s experience. The pricing for each of these levels of is dynamic and can fluctuate slightly across days of the week. You’ll also find that some times of day are more expensive than others. Generally speaking ‘premium’ will be slightly more expensive than ‘comfort’, with the ‘luxury’ being a more size-able jump in price. Family activities can add up quickly, but at Blue Lagoon children 13 and under enjoy free admission. The saved pennies can go towards all the snacks little people eat!

COMFORTPREMIUMLUXURY
Includes:
– Entrance to the Blue Lagoon
– Silica mud mask
– Use of a towel
– 1st drink of your choice
Includes:
– Entrance to the Blue Lagoon
– Silica mud mask + two additional masks of your choice
– Use of a towel
– 1st drink of your choice
– Use of bathrobe
– 1 glass of sparkling wine if dining at Lava restaurant
Includes:
– Five luxurious hours at the Retreat Spa
– Includes a private changing suite
– Unlimited access to both the Retreat Lagoon and the Blue Lagoon (and all the extra luxe amenities in the Retreat center)
example of the dynamic pricing
Replenishing the energy stores

You really can spend all day here… some morning relaxation followed by a delicious lunch and then back into the hot springs you go. Where to eat? You won’t find a food court here, that’s for sure. There’s a cafe with both dining-in and take-away options as well as three restaurants— all serving fresh, locally sourced ingredients and unforgettable views. While the food is bound to be good wherever you end up, they do have a Michelin-starred establishment, heralded for its gourmet revelations. This is a recent accomplishment as the Moss Restaurant just received their Michelin-star in 2023! It’s easy to make a reservation online when you book your admission ticket.

Take off

At the end of the day, it’s time to pack up and head home… all the way back home! Blue Lagoon is only ~20 minutes away from the airport, so it’s beyond easy to store your bags while you’re relaxing, shower off, and then jetset off for home. It’s always amazing just how quickly ten days flies by!

We were quite the unlucky pair for Blue Lagooning— one pregnant belly and one fresh ankle surgery/incision meant we had to skip this bucket list attraction; however, we already know we’ll be back one day to enjoy all the mud masks and steamy warmth.

So long, farewell

Iceland is beyond magnificent with its cornucopia of astounding natural beauty. To compare it to other places we’ve been, we found Iceland to be a rather unexpected combination of Hawaii meets Alaska?? Strangely enough. But anyways, we loved our ten day ring road adventure, and we wish you all the most exhilarating explorations as you venture out.

Happy travels!


written by Hannah 

Hannah has learned the hard way to be careful what you wish for— sometimes happily ever after lands you with a husband and puppy… in the Midwest.  Despite leaving Florida to move to Wisconsin,  Hannah maintains her bossy big sister role with regular phone calls to keep up with all the little sister shenanigans. Notoriously chatty with her patients as well, Hannah stays busy as a physical therapist, but loves spending weekends exploring newfound hikes.


Categories
europe

Best Highlights of the Algarve Coast: Four Days of Adventure

Portugal is a beautiful, historic country to visit, with its biggest cities situated along picturesque waterways. The Algarve best exemplifies this with its dramatic cliffs and world-class beaches. Spending a few days exploring the dazzling southern Portugal coastline goes by in the blink of an eye… mostly because you’re not visiting just one city but many. With so many gorgeous landscapes, you’re going to have trouble picking a favorite! Savor all the most memorable highlights of the Algarve coast, with its sandstone cliffs, dreamy sunsets, and unforgettable beaches. Our comprehensive four-day itinerary will ensure you see all the most amazing, breathtaking views. 

When you’re planning a trip it’s often difficult to discern how much time to spend in a given area. Is four days enough in the Algarve? Can you squeeze in the highlights in less time? While it would be easy to extend your stay, four days is enough to see the highlights and do some thorough wandering around. Inversely, any less than is really too little time to hit all the big highlights. Four days is the perfect amount of time to visit the most outstanding areas and get a feel for the region’s character. 

Having experienced a couple all-too-short layovers in Portugal, we recently decided it was time to go all in on an exploration extravaganza. We just finished a ten-day city-hopping adventure, and we’re already dying to go back! Growing up in South Florida, we’ve spent our fair share of time on the beach, but the beaches along the Algarve coastline are truly some of the most beautiful in the world.

Sometimes setting out, getting a little lost, and taking in small unexpected wonders can be the most amazingly memorable experience. If you’re keen to make the most of your time in the Algarve, we have an outstanding, action packed itinerary for you. Below we’ve detailed our favorite beaches, — plus all the tips and tricks to ensure you make the most of your time. 

When to Visit 

But first when to visit?! Time of year can make or break your experience, but everyone is different! Do crowds stress you out? Can you spend the day out wandering around in the middle of summer? Are you keen to avoid the rainy season? What’s important to you will help dictate your perfect time of year…. or perhaps it’s just about getting away from work whenever they can spare you! 

Summer

The Algarve is a delight year-round, but some times of year are certainly better for visiting than others. Portugal will feel rather summery from June to mid-September, with July and August being the hottest months. This also happens to be the high season in Portugal, where you’ll find the highest concentration of tourists and prices will tend to be higher during this time as well. Super lovely as everything is open, the chances of rain are about as low as it gets, and everything is green and lively. The cons of summer visits are the high volume of fellow travelers and the heat may be a bit oppressive to any more northern-based visitors. 

As a note: we were here mid-July and didn’t find the warm weather to be too bad; however, we’ve grown up with the hot and humid heat of summer in southwest Florida!

Winter

In the Algarve the wintery months of December, January, and February tend to not only be colder but rainer as well. There’s beauty to be found in every season, but if you visit in the winter, you’ll want to make sure you bring some layers…. and a rain jacket! You’ll love being able to explore without nearly as many people.

The cons of a winter visit pertain mostly to the weather and some of the spots that may be closed in the off-season. That being said, everyone has a different idea of what’s cold… doesn’t get snow, so anyone used to a biting winter may find a Portuguese winter to be a nice reprieve! Think highs in the 60’s and lows in the 40’s.

two sisters looking out at the beach, recalling all their favorite highlights of the Algarve
Spring & Fall

What does that leave? The shoulder seasons… arguably the best time to visit! If you can visit late April into May, it affords you the opportunity to enjoy all the sights of the Algarve— plus there’s less crowds to maneuver. Similarly, late September and into October will allow you to still explore before the weather turns chilly again, and the stifling crowds of the summer have started to thin out yet again. Plus, airfare over the summer can become astonishingly expensive, so booking outside of peak travel times can keep a little extra money in your pocket as well! 

Transportation Station

While a car is not necessary for exploring much of Portugal, it really does help streamline your time efficiency when trying to explore the south coast. Areas like Porto and Lisbon are more compact, making it easy to walk pretty much everywhere you need to go, with loads of bus and trains available to facilitate adventures (or rescue tired feet) as necessary.

Inversely, the Algarve is a region, with dozens of small towns nestled into the coastline. As such, the easiest and most time-efficient way to get where you need to go will be renting a car. We used Enterprise (out of the Faro Airport), and we loved our zippy little hybrid (but read below for sketchy rental car company practices)! It was perfect for exploring all the nooks and crannies of this ruggedly beautiful coast.

Just a reminder, when you leave the USA, oftentimes the cheapest cars to rent will have manual transmission, so ensure you know how to drive the car you’re booking before making any final selections! 

you can never be too careful

While we did love the car we rented and can confidently report it performed well for us, we were extremely underwhelmed with the customer service. Enterprise, Alamo, and National were all rented through Guerin, a local company. We declined insurance coverage through Guerin as my booking credit card includes rental car coverage.

When we were picking the car up, I took a video of the car as it had some very mild damage that I didn’t want us to be later charged for. I was SO GLAD I did because when we went to return the car, they told me that we’d damaged two wheel wells and had gotten a small, cosmetic, knick in the tire wall. If I didn’t have my own video of the car, we would have had to submit a claim for damage we didn’t incur. ALWAYS take pictures or videos of your rental cars!!!

Where to Stay

There’s a handful of bigger cities along the southern coast, like Faro, Albufeira, or Lagos that will have a plethora of options to chose from. Any of these spots would be lovely to base out of, but the more bustling locales tend to be a little more touristy.

There’s nothing inherently wrong with that, but we if we were to make a recommendation, we’d actually recommend hunkering down in Portimao, Ferragudo, Carvoeiro. Why? The central location is perfect— close to amazing beaching, stellar hikes, and the iconic Benagil Cave. Plus, it’s a little less overwhelmingly touristy here!

We stayed at this Airbnb and loved that it was rather removed from any chaos and the little family vineyard was so peaceful and relaxing.

DAY ONE

Fargo is the most common city to arrive into, with both a train station as well as the Faro International Airport shepherding lucky visitors to the cerulean blues and jaw dropping cliffs that await. Faro itself is a charming town, but with limited time, we recommend spending half the day here before heading west.

Ponto Smokehouse is this little hole-in-the-wall pulled pork spot just steps away from the Faro Train Station. Definitely nothing fancy, but the fresh baked buns and delicious smoked pork are such a fast, yummy, and well-priced bite. If you happen to arrive on a late morning/early afternoon train, it’s so worth stopping in for a bite!!

Salty Experiences

Nothing makes you feel wide awake quite like surfing. Are you down to shred the gnar? Hang ten? Salty Experiences offers group and private surfing lessons to help dip your toe into the pool of possibilities. If surfing is a little more splashing around than you’re keen on, they also have canoeing and stand-up-paddleboarding adventures available as well!

Honestly, no need to splurge for a private lesson— you kinda just get taken out with the class, so just sign up for the group surf lesson! They do an awesome job helping everyone get up, offering advice specific to each person’s skill level, and ensuring it was a great experience for everyone.

You take a boat ride out to the surf spot to kinda pull away from the main area of the beach and get to a locale with a bit more wave action. This also means we definitely left our phones behind so we could dive in without concern for any waterlogged electronics. That being said, the image of Dana, with a big ‘ole smile on her face, riding the whitewash waves into the beach, will forever make me smile!!

Drive West

Ferragudo, Carvoeiro, or Portimão are the perfect middle ground to base out of for all of the Algarve wandering to be had. From Faro to Ferragudo, it’s less than an hour’s drive, so once you’re all rinsed off, it’s time to hit the road. When you roll in town, drop off your bags, grab your towel, and get ready to explore some beach vistas. 

Life’s a Beach 

There are so many beautiful beaches and so little time! Cheers to your camera roll being chock-a-block full of all the dreamiest beach photos you’re going to stare at for months to come! Whether you’re looking to beach-hop or pick one and stay ‘til sunset, you’re headed across the Arade River, to the lovely town of Portimão. There’s a handful of key, must-see spots to check out here. 

Praia da Rocha

A rather long beach, this is the perfect locale if you’re looking to stretch your legs out and go on a relaxing beach walk. Another plus, this beach has lifeguards, which can be especially nice for any nervous swimmers or families with kids. It’s hard to pick a favorite beach along the Algarve because there are just so many beautiful vistas. 

Praia dos Três Irmãos

This beach is easy to access with a sloping boardwalk guiding you down to the beautiful beach. Once you’re there, you can dip your toes in the refreshing water, and— if the tides allow– there’s also loads of little coves to explore, which add to the adventure of this sandy spectacle. 

Praia da Prainha

The staircase down to the beach may feel never-ending, but the beach and beautifully eroded coast are truly unbelievable. It feels like a fun adventure to walk around the cliffs and find secluded spots. While you’re hard-pressed to find a bad sunset spot along the Algarve, Praia da Prainha makes for a gorgeous spot to end the day. We recommend making the trek back up the stairs to enjoy the sunset from above, but it’s truly beautiful from any vantage point along the coast. 

Rest up! Tomorrow is an action-packed day, with lots of hiking, kayaking, and cave exploration, so make sure to tuck in early, so you can hit the ground running in the morning! 

DAY TWO

The early bird gets the worm…. but also the Benagil Cave to themselves!  From morning paddling to picturesque beachside relaxation to dreamy evening sunsets, your second day exploring the Algarve coastline will be hard to beat.

Benagil Cave Kayak

You may be thinking… why kayak to the cave instead of taking a boat ride… where you don’t have to work at all?? The sweat equity goes a long way, because it means you get to actually hang out and wander around in the algarve. The powerboats will come into the cave, but they don’t dock on the beach— that privilege is reserved for the kayakers!

There’s loads of different companies that offer tours out to the cave, but Secret Algarve offers a 7:00am excursion, which we highly recommend!!! I know it sounds early, but this is one of the most popular attractions in South Portugal, so if you fancy the idea of having the space a bit more to yourself, it will be worth setting your alarm clock.  

BEACH

Praia de Benagil is the beach you’ll launch out of for your kayak journey, but once you’re done paddling, we actually recommend relocating to a Praia de Carvoeiro. Praia de Benagil is lovely but just get a little hectic with everyone coming and going.

Not far down the road, Praia de Carvoeiro is a small but charming beach that makes for a beautiful place to lay out and relax. I honestly don’t think I would every get tired of looking out at the sandstone cliffs and the sparkling blue water. This makes for a perfect spot to camp out for the day. Even in the summer, the water remains refreshingly cold, so overheating won’t be a problem. While the beach itself isn’t terribly conducive to a long walk on the beach, you can wander along the boardwalk to catch a birds eye view of the beach— or follow all the way to Algar Seco to explore this unique rock formation.

Lagos

The drive to Lagos is only 35 minutes or so, which makes for a pretty easy ride. Lagos is ripe with ethereal sunset locales, but we have the perfect sunset experience locked down. Be sure to arrive at the Dona Ana Beach parking lot at least an hour before the sunset, because you’ll be walking your way to Ponta da Piedade via a gorgeous boardwalk.

While there is a more direct route there, the boardwalk is filled with loads of little viewpoints and access to different beaches, such a Praia do Camilo. I’m not sure I’d ever get tired of looking out at each uniquely amazing sandy paradise. The boardwalk continues to wrap its was west, so really, find whatever spot you like best and wait for the sun to sink away.

Pro tip— you are up on cliffs, so the sun sets a bit sooner up here as it will slip behind the elevated cliffs before it sets into the horizon. Just a reminder that this is not a spot you’d want to be cutting it close for the sunset…. you just might miss it!

DAY THREE

Rise and shine… again! While there’s no real rush to get up and out the door, this morning’s hiking adventure is rather popular, so it’s always nice to get out ahead of the crowds– especially if you’re visiting in the high season. Another bonus of getting out early? Summer days can get rather warm, so an early start means hiking in a bit cooler temperatures.

Seven Hanging Valleys

So where are you headed? Praia da Marinha is a beautiful beach, but it also serves as a trailhead for the Seven Hanging Valleys hike. This amazing hike meanders along the coastline, affording unparalleled views of the staggering cliffs and the crashing waves of the ocean below.

The hike takes around 2.5 hours to complete and clocked in around 4 miles— and that’s just going one way! To be fair, we walked out to just about every outlook and also stopped to take more than our fair share of pictures, so it’s certainly possible to knock it out at a faster clip. If you do this as an out and back hike will be about 8 miles total if you plan to trek back to your car. We ended up just catching an uber back to our car, to save energy for the rest of the day. 

Praia do Vale de Centeanes is on the west-end of the hike, so if you feel the need to rest coming on immediately, you can always just relax beach-side there and then either hike or uber back to your car! The beauty of this trail? Since it’s an out and back hike, you can start at either end!

There was a bit more we wanted to explore near Marinha, so that’s where we decided to base out of, but you can start wherever makes the most sense for you! Also worth noting, Marinha has a bigger parking lot.

Pro tip: If you’re visiting in the summer, the parking lot will fill up. To ensure you’ll be able to secure a spot, we recommend arriving by 9am. When we were leaving around noon, there was a literal honking and yelling ordeal going on over who would get out spot as we were driving away!!

Albufeira

Rinse off, pack your bags, and get ready to hit the road for Albufeira. While a bit touristy, this alluring beachside city is certainly worth making a day-trip for. You’ll get to enjoy a whole new set of views and beach-town charm. Albufeira isn’t huuuge, but there are some top spots you’ll want to make sure you check out.

First stop? The Albufeira Old Town Square! This eclectic hub is home to street performers, shops, musicians, a small art museum, and loads of tasty restaurants. The cobblestone, tiles walls, and blossoming flowers made for quite the vibrant promenade.

Next, wander on over to the nearby Miradouro Pau da Bandeira. This overlook is perched above Albufeira’s Praia dos Pescadores (pictured below), and makes for a dazzling view of both the town and the beach itself. Even more unique, there’s an outdoor escalator that will take you from the viewpoint down to the beach. While there certainly aren’t commonplace throughout Portugal, we saw a handful of them during our explorations and can confirm they were quite lovely to have when it’s time to start climbing back uphill.

After a morning of hiking and wandering around, you might be feeling like you’re ready for a nap. Praia dos Pescadores makes for a lovely spot to stretch out… or go run wild in the blow-up obstacle coarse just off shore. If you’re looking for something a bit more removed, Praia dos Arrifes is only fifteen minutes west, and is another marvelous beach option. They both will have bathrooms and dining options nearby, which is clutch.

DAY FOUR
beach bum at Praia da Mesquita

Nothing hits the spot quite like laying out and taking a nap on the beach. And lucky for you, you have a few options for beaches to rest at. After a couple of rather active mornings, the name of the game today is finding a relaxation station.

Praia da Marinha will be the easiest to access as this is the same beach parking lot yesterday’s hike started from. This beach is the perfect picturesque spot to drift off into a well-deserved little cat nap.

If you arrive at the beach before 9am, you’ll more or less have it to yourself for a bit, but as the day rolls on, more beachgoers will start to arrive. If you keep heading west and the tides are cooperating to let you climb over a few rocks, you’ll find Praia da Mesquita! In the summer months you’ll be hard-pressed to get any nooks or crannies of the coastline to yourself, but this area might just be a bit more secluded than Praia da Marinha. 

So Long, Farewell

From Ferragudo back to Faro it’s about a 45 minute drive, so ensure you leave enough time to drop your bags, return a rental car, etc. as necessary. We arrived via train and left by plane, and we can attest that both the train station and the airport are pretty easy to navigate– even without being fluent in Portuguese.


The Algarve offers scenic coastlines, amazing views, delicious food, and outstanding hikes. Four days here will fly by! Where are you headed next? Will your travels take you to Lisbon, Portugal’s capital city (check out our Lisbon blog post here)? Or perhaps go take in the gorgeous northern wine country in Porto (click here for a perfect three day Porto itinerary)?? It’s amazing how each region embodies the Portuguese landscape and culture in a different way. Happy travels!


written by Hannah 

Hannah has learned the hard way to be careful what you wish for— sometimes happily ever after lands you with a husband and puppy… in the Midwest.  Despite leaving Florida to move to Wisconsin,  Hannah maintains her bossy big sister role with regular phone calls to keep up with all the little sister shenanigans. Notoriously chatty with her patients as well, Hannah stays busy as a physical therapist, but loves spending weekends exploring newfound hikes.


Categories
europe

The Most Amazing Three-Day Porto Itinerary

Portugal is a beautiful, historic country to visit, with its biggest cities situated along picturesque waterways. Porto is no exception with the Douro River winding its way through its heart and the vast Atlantic Ocean to the west. Porto is known for its impressive bridges, port wine, and remarkable neoclassical architecture. Spending a couple days exploring this city goes by in the blink of an eye! Our comprehensive three-day Porto itinerary will ensure you see all the most memorable spots. 

When you’re planning a trip it’s often difficult to discern how much time to spend in a given area. Is two days enough in Porto? Would three days be better? Yes…. but also no. Two days is enough to hit the highlights of Porto, and get a feel for the city’s ambiance and charm (which there is loads of).

Despite this, we actually highly recommend staying a third day to head inland and explore Douro Valley. This allows you to see all the rich history of this beautiful coastal town as well as the rolling hills of Portugal’s wine country. But more on that later!  

fresh off the plane

Having experienced a couple all-too-short layovers in Portugal, we recently decided it was time to go all in on an exploration extravaganza. We just finished a ten-day city-hopping adventure, and we’re already dying to go back! 

While guided tours can be a great way to support the local economy and experience the local perspective, sometimes setting out, getting a little lost, and taking in small unexpected wonders can be its own memorable experience. If you’re keen to make the most of your time in Porto, we have an outstanding, action packed itinerary for you. Below we’ve detailed the best viewpoints (miradouros), historical landmarks, and best spots to grab a bite, as well as some beautifully tiled churches — plus all the tips and tricks to ensure you make the most of your time. 

When to Visit 

But first, when to visit?! Time of year can make or break your experience, but everyone is different! Do crowds stress you out? Can you spend the day out wandering around in the middle of summer? Are you keen to avoid the rainy season? What’s important to you will help dictate your perfect time of year…. or perhaps it’s just about getting away from work whenever they can spare you! 

Summer

Porto is a delight year-round, but some times of year are certainly better for visiting than others. Portugal will feel rather summery from June to mid-September, with July and August being the hottest months. This also happens to be the high season in Portugal, where you’ll find the highest concentration of tourists and prices will tend to be higher during this time as well. Super lovely as everything is open, the chances of rain are about as low as it gets, and everything is green and lively.

The cons of summer visits are the high volume of fellow travelers and the heat may be a bit oppressive to any more northern-based visitors. That being said, we visited mid-July and found the temperature to be quite reasonable, with highs only reaching into the upper 80s. We did ensure all our accommodations had air conditioning though as it would have made for rather warm afternoons and evenings alternatively.

Winter

In Porto the wintery months of December, January, and February tend to not only be colder but rainer as well. There’s beauty to be found in every season, but if you visit in the winter, you’ll want to make sure you bring some layers…. and a rain jacket! You’ll love being able to explore without nearly as many people. The cons of a winter visit pertain mostly to the weather and some of the spots that may be closed in the off-season. That being said, everyone has a different idea of what’s cold… Porto doesn’t really get snow, so anyone used to a biting winter may find a Portuguese winter to be a nice reprieve! 

Spring & Fall

What does that leave? The shoulder seasons… arguably the best time to visit! Why? If visit in May, it affords you the opportunity to enjoy all the sights of Porto as the city is blooming— plus there’s less crowds to maneuver. Similarly, late September and into October will allow you to still explore before the weather turns chilly again, and the stifling crowds of the summer have started to thin out yet again. Plus, airfare over the summer can become astonishingly expensive, so booking outside of peak travel times can keep a little extra money in your pocket as well! 

Transportation Station

Our opinion: no keys please! While having a car in Portugal can be nice to allow you some flexibility with intra-country travel, it’s really not necessary within the city of Porto. You can get pretty much anywhere you need to go by walking or train travel— even pedestrian bridges to make crossing the river easy peasy. If your feet ever start to tire, they do have ride-share options available, and we found Uber to be very reasonable. 

Where to Stay

Everyone’s budget and expectations for travel are varied. What’s most important for your stay? Being right in the heart of the action? Having a room with a view? Relaxing with all the lux amenities? Do you mind climbing a couple flights of stairs? Do you prefer hotels over Airbnbs? Or do you live for the community atmosphere in hostels?

Regardless of what your accommodation vision board is, you will want to book your stay sooner rather than later— especially if you’re traveling in the high season over the summer. Rooms tend to go quickly! Making reservations in advance is especially important for anyone trying to keep their budget low as cheap accommodations tend to book up. That being said, Portugal overall tends to be a more economic European country to visit if you’re looking to stretch your pennies.  

Budget

The Passenger Hostel — prime location in the S.Bento’s Train Station

Wine Hostel —  prime location by the Clérigos Tower

Rivoli Cinema Hostel — prime location right around the corner from Avenida dos Aliados

Airbnb: De Porto e Alma I — whole apartment to yourself, superhost, rated 4.96/5 (82 reviews)

Airbnb: Central Quiet Cozy Charming Studio 101 — whole apartment to yourself, superhost, rated 4.90/5 (61 reviews)

Mid-range

Airbnb: Porto Downtown Residence (we stayed here and LOVED it)— right by Mercado do Bolhão, rated 5/5 (102 reviews)

Airbnb: Deluxe City View — central location, spacious apartment, rated 4.91/5 (140 reviews) 

Airbnb: Almada — great location, beautiful decor, superhost, rated 4.98/5 (129 reviews)

Malmerendas — charming boutique hotel, with prime location near S.Bento’s Train Station

Douro Riverside — amazing riverside location and views

Spendy

Torel Palace — vintage-chic quarters in a stylish boutique hotel

Torel Avantgarde — a stylish and upscale boutique hotel with views of the Douro River

PortoBay Flores — high-end hotel in a grand 16th-century building, with a dreamy spa 

Porto River Aparthotel — posh, yet laid-back luxury hotel facing the Douro River

DAY 1 

I hope your legs are fresh and ready for a full day of walking around and seeing the sights! Porto is a rather hilly city so your sightseeing will also be your workout! For those a little nervous about a day full of walking, Porto has a pretty adept public transit system that’s easy for tourists to navigate.

The following sights and subsequent walking path are organized in a way that creates a loop, so you can really explore the sights and sounds of Porto in whatever order works best for where you’re staying. You can find our walking path map for the day here

Avenida dos Aliados

Located along Liberdade Square, Avenida dos Aliados is the center of Porto. It’s the main avenue in this north populus, and it honors the Allied countries from World War I in a grandiose manner. Not only is it rich in historic character, but it’s also home to hotels, shops, and cafes. A nice, open first stop to promenade through. If you’re looking for a bit of a breakfast splurge, stop into Cafe Guarany for retro-chic ambiance and a tasty breakfast. 

Igreja do Carmo

This picturesque church is most notable for its alluring exterior, covered in vivid blue azulejos. Depending on how you’re rocking with time and how intrigued you are by historic churches, there are options to tour the church and explore the hidden house, gilded interior, and even see the small catacomb within.

Even if you’re not feelin’ the tour, this is a fab spot to just stroll by. The rather iconic exterior makes it a popular photo locale— both to capture the artistic beauty of the church as well as a fun, memorable selfie. The tiles make for a fun backdrop if you’re keen on a photo with some of Portugal’s famed decorative tiles! 

Palacio de Cristal

The Jardins do Palácio de Cristal is a bit farther off the walking path loop than some of the other spots, but it’s so worth it! It can be beautiful to take in the sights of a historic city, but there’s something relaxing about being able to enjoy the lush green of the gardens, the beautiful tulip blooms, and the exotic peacocks strolling about. As a bonus you’ll also be treated to lovely views of the Douro River and sweeping rooftop landscapes. 

This actually ended up being one of my favorite stops. It was so peaceful to be able to snag a spot in the share, share a gelato, and lookout over the city.

Clerigos Tower 

Up next, the Clérigos Church! In case you skipped out on the tour of the Igreja do Carmo, you’ll have your next opportunity at the ornate baroque church. What makes this church definitely worth the price of admission? It houses Torre dos Clérigos, a 75-meter-tall bell tower, with over 200 steps that afford a fabulous, 360° view of Porto.

It does get busy though, so if you’re visiting in the summer, we recommend you purchase tickets in advance for your desired time window to ensure you’re able to go up. If you show up mid-day and they’re sold out of your desired time, there’s still hope! They’re likely to have evening tickets still available, and the Clergios Tower makes for an awesome spot to catch the sunset (see pictures below). A word to the wise? Book the time window 30 minutes before sunset to give yourself time to make it up the stairs and snag a perch along the wall facing the sunset! It does get full up there as the sun goes down.

As a note: while the church and its accompanying tower views are truly breathtaking, there WILL be other options for outstanding views if the thought of being in a narrow, mid-century staircase on a hot summer’s day gives you the heebie jeebies. At the very least, it’s a lovely stop to include in a walk-about of the city. 

Palácio da Bolsa

In the Infante D. Henrique Square, you’ll find the Palácio da Bolsa… which at one point was home to the Porto Stock Exchange. The neoclassical building has been a national monument since 1982, and is now the headquarters of Porto’s Commercial Association. Intricate details are prolific throughout the palace but we thought the Arab room was the crown jewel! They offer half hour guided tours (in four languages) to help navigate the gilded building. This is another spot that requires time window tickets during the summer. So, if you’re keen to explore here, make sure you book in advance!

The Palácio da Bolsa is located in the Ribeira neighborhood of Porto, which is known for its charming cobbled streets and lively atmosphere. Take your time exploring all the nooks and crannies in this charismatic neighborhood! 

Church of Saint Ildefonso

Completed in 1739, this is yet another beautiful church in Porto. If religious relics are your jam, you will thrive on all the various historic churches, monasteries, and covenants in Portugal; however, if you’re less religious or just not as intrigued by the array of artifacts (the church fatigue can get real), the Church of Saint Ildefonso is still soooo worth stopping by to admire from the outside.

The azulejo tiles that cover the exterior are such a niched art form and very unique to the area. The tiles here depict the life of Saint Ildefonso as well as some relevant biblical scenery. It’s amazing to see how over 11,000 tiles have been weathered and stood the test of time since the early 1930s. 

Rua Santa Catarina

Rua Santa Catarina is the epicenter of commerce in the city, with arguably the best assortment of shops, restaurants, and cafes— as well as a handful of charming churches. The pedestrian-only street makes it easy to wander around and lose track of time. The most notable stops along the way?

Capela das Almas (Chapel of Souls) is a quaint church, with loads of charm. It’s covered in azulejos that were painted with scenes from the lives of saints. Eye-catching to look at and a lovely place to snag the perfect adventure girl picture of yourself. Casa do Chocolate not only makes tasty chocolates, but they had the best chocolate gelato I ate during our time in Portugal….. and I sampled more than my fair share of gelato!

Café Majestic will catch your eye with its beguiling curb appeal and a draw-dropping interior. Boasted to be one of the most beautiful cafes in the world, Majestic was restored to its original Belle Époque style, reminiscent of old Parisian cafes. If you’re feeling a little extra posh, this makes for a fun spot to grab a bite. 

Dinner Please

A gal can only wander for so long before it’s time for a snack… or perhaps a whole meal. Along our walking path, you’re guaranteed to happen upon loads of different amazing spots, but just in case you’re looking for a little guidance these restaurants are all worth visiting. 

Petisqueira Voltaria — a delightful array of tapas as well as the Porto sandwich special: the Francesinha 

Chama —  trendy dishes brought to you by wood-oven, with locally-sourced ingredients

Muu Steakhouse — an upscale steakhouse, but also a great spot for some tasty seafood as well 

Le Monument — a Michelin star fine dining experience with 10- and 14-course dining options 

DAY 2

Another action packed day will have you out and about taking in as many sights as daylight will allow– plus some gorgeous views as the sun sets! Not only will today’s jaunt highlight Porto, but you’ll have an opportunity to cross the Douro River and adventure to nearby Gaia as well! You can check out the walking path map for day 2 here!

Mercado do Bolhão

The Mercado do Bolhão is an amazing fresh market with all kinds of goods to peruse. From fresh flowers to fruits and veggies to olives, cheeses, and meats to pastries and wine… everything one might be looking for in a market. The marketplace itself has been recently renovated, so not only are the treats and sweets a delight but the building is open and modern. 

Perhaps we were just lucky gals when we were visiting, but our Airbnb hostess left us some Algarve oranges, and they were AMAZING! I purchased more from the Bolhão market on two separate occasions, and then another handful while we were down near Portimão. They were just so incredibly tasty!!!

As a note: some vendors will accept card payments, but we would recommend having some cash (i.e. euros) on hand to ensure you’re able to purchase whatever your heart— or stomach— desires.

São Bento Train Station

You won’t be taking a train anywhere today, but the São Bento Train Station is still worth a stop! Sound a little bananas? This train station not only serves as a point of transit, but it’s also home to an azulejos mural depicting scenes from Portugal history. Getting to experience all different spots around the city with the unique blue and white tiles is a fun way to experience Portuguese history and art all in one! 

Porto Cathedral 

It wouldn’t be a day out in Porto without at least one cathedral on the agenda! The Porto Cathedral is as intricate as it is majestic, and the craftsmanship of the building will hold appeal to anyone— not just Catholic visitors! It is free to enter but it only costs €3 to explore more— which is totally worth it for some bird’s eye views of the city. The cathedral sits up on a hill, so it has a fab vantage point! 

Luis I Bridge

Now if you’re looking to keep leveling up on views with outstanding perspectives, let those walking boots carry you to the Luis I Bridge. This double decker bridge connects Porto to Vila Nova de Gaia, making it easy to meander across the river and keep sauntering. Plus the bridge is extremely pedestrian friendly for anyone ardently exploring by foot. Don’t be mistaken though, this bridge is so much more than just a connection point, it affords the most fantastic views of Porto, Gaia, and the Douro River. 

Gaia Riverfront

Also known as Ribeira de Gaia, the riverfront is less of a singular destination and more of a general area to savor. There’s always fun to be had when getting a little lost exploring someplace new. This niche of Portugal is renowned for its port wine, so pack your sommelier cap and squeeze in some tasing. Since we knew we were going on a couple winery tours the following day, we skipped the wine cellar tours, but still meandered down to Churchill’s Lodge for beautiful views and a bit of wine tasting— primarily by Dana of course since I’m pregnant 😉

 There’s loads of little vendors selling their wares, and Dana and I couldn’t resist these fun hats (pictured below)!

Teleferico de Gaia 

At this point in the day your feet might just be getting a little tired of walking, and lucky for you, there’s an easy and adventurous way to make your way back up toward the bridge. Teleferico de Gaia suspends cable cars along the Gaia riverside, offering a rather unique mode of transportation. While it’s totally possible to make the walk, isn’t it more enticing to fly through the sky taking it all in from above?? By the end of the day, you really will have seen the Douro River from every vantage point. The lower station is near the Cais de Gaia Municipal Market, and it will drop you off at the upper station, adjacent to Jardim do Morro. 

Miradouro do teleférico

The Miradouro do teleférico is right next door to the Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar, but you can save yourself the €2, and watch the sunset from Miradouro do teleférico— which is free! There’s loads of little spots (such as this one) to hang out along the river, take in the view, and just enjoy a moment of peace. If you’re looking for a dinner and a show, Esplanada do Teleférico serves up some tasty digs and offers a stunning perspective of the sun as it sets. 

Day Three: Douro Valley

It’s time to strike out away from the city! Where to next? Wine country!! Whether you’re a wine savant or considering your first ever vineyard tour, there’s so much to be seen out in the northern Portugal countryside. The rolling views of the countryside and the winding river create a tapestry of vibrant emeralds just waiting to be savored. This UNESCO World Heritage site is a must-visit for your Portugal itinerary. 

We used public transportation and our best walking shoes to get around Porto, so we booked a tour to explore Douro Valley. The tour included two winery tours as well as a traditional Rabelo boat ride on the Douro River… plus lunch, historical stops, loads of beautiful photos, and all the fun facts from our tour guide. It really made for a spectacular day!!

Our tour is linked here. We loved having an 8-person cap to the group to keep it less chaotic. It is possible to take the train from Porto to the station in Douro Valley, but the tour made it incredibly convenient and stress-free to get from one place to another. Plus the perspective of our tour guide made it an even more authentic experience.


Porto offers rich character, amazing views, delicious food, and profound history. Three days here will fly by! Where are you headed next? Will your travels take you to Lisbon, Portugal’s capital city (check out our blog post on Lisbon here)? Or perhaps go take in the gorgeous southern coastline in the Algarve?? It’s amazing how each region embodies the Portuguese landscape and culture in a different way. Happy travels! 


written by Hannah 

Hannah has learned the hard way to be careful what you wish for— sometimes happily ever after lands you with a husband and puppy… in the Midwest.  Despite leaving Florida to move to Wisconsin,  Hannah maintains her bossy big sister role with regular phone calls to keep up with all the little sister shenanigans. Notoriously chatty with her patients as well, Hannah stays busy as a physical therapist, but loves spending weekends exploring newfound hikes.


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The Best Two-Day Lisbon Itinerary

Lisbon is the perfect spot for visitors looking to experience it all. Not only is it Portugal’s capital, but Lisbon’s also one of the oldest cities in Western Europe, which amplifies to the rich character it exudes. While Lisbon has the bustle of a bigger city, its historic roots and breathtaking coastal views make it a must-visit on any Portugal itinerary. The amazing food and charismatic music will leave you wanting more. We’ve compiled the best two-day Lisbon itinerary to help make the absolute most of your time!

Is two days enough in Lisbon? While it would be easy to extend your stay, two days is enough to see the highlights and do some thorough wandering around. Be sure to pack your most comfortable walking shoes though, because walking around in Lisbon requires tackling some hilly climbs. Honestly if you have a third day to tack on, we’d recommend exploring outside the city a bit— there’s a couple day trips that are simply too amazing to pass up. But more on that later! 

the best two-day Lisbon itinerary includes views such as this one overlooking the city at sunset

Having experienced a couple all-too-short layovers in Lisbon, we recently decided it was time to go all in on a Portugal exploration extravaganza. My sister Dana and I just finished a ten-day city-hopping adventure, and we’re already dying to go back! 

While guided tours can be a great way to support the local economy and experience the resident perspective, sometimes setting out, getting a little lost, and taking in small unexpected wonders can be its own memorable experience. If you’re keen to make the most of your time in Lisbon, we have an outstanding, action packed itinerary for you. Below we’ve detailed all the best viewpoints (miradouros), historical landmarks, best spots to grab a bite, as well as beautiful cathedrals and monasteries— and all the tips and tricks to ensure you make the most of your time. 

When to Visit 

But first, when to visit?! Time of year can make or break your experience, but everyone is different! Do crowds stress you out? Can you spend the day out wandering around in the middle of summer? Are you keen to avoid the rainy season? What’s important to you will help dictate your perfect time of year…. or perhaps it’s just about getting away from work whenever they can spare you! 

Summer

Lisbon is a delight year-round, but some times of year are certainly better for visiting than others. Portugal will feel rather summery from June to mid-September, with July and August being the hottest months (but in my opinion , still very tolerable). This also happens to be the high season in Portugal, where you’ll find the highest concentration of tourists and prices will tend to be higher during this time as well. Super lovely as everything is open, the chances of rain are about as low as it gets, and everything is green and lively. The cons of summer visits are the high volume of fellow travelers and the heat may be a bit oppressive to any more northern-based visitors. 

Winter

In Lisbon the wintery months of December, January, and February tend to not only be colder but rainier as well. There’s beauty to be found in every season, but if you visit in the winter, you’ll want to make sure you bring some layers…. and a rain jacket! You’ll love being able to explore without nearly as many people and enjoy the festive Christmas market.

The cons of a winter visit pertain mostly to the weather and some of the spots that may be closed in the off-season. That being said, everyone has a different idea of what’s cold… Porto doesn’t really get snow, so anyone used to a biting winter may find a Portuguese winter to be a nice reprieve! 

Spring & Fall

What does that leave? The shoulder seasons… arguably the best time to visit! If you can visit late April into May, it affords you the opportunity to enjoy all the sights of Lisbon as the city is blooming— plus there’s less crowds to maneuver.

Similarly, late September and into October will allow you to still explore before the weather turns chilly again, and the stifling crowds of the summer have started to thin out yet again. Plus, airfare over the summer can become astonishingly expensive, so booking outside of peak travel times can keep a little extra money in your pocket as well! 

Transportation Station

Our opinion: no keys please! While having a car in Portugal can be nice to allow you some flexibility with intra-country travel, it’s really not necessary within the city of Lisbon. You can get pretty much anywhere you need to go by walking or train travel— plus they do have super affordable ride-share options available if your feet ever start to tire. 

Where to Stay

Everyone’s budget and expectations for travel are varied. What’s most important for your stay? Being right in the heart of the action? Having a room with a view? Relaxing with all the lux amenities? Do you mind climbing a couple flights of stairs? Do you prefer hotels over Airbnbs? Or do you live for the community atmosphere in hostels?

Regardless of what your accommodation vision board is, you will want to book your stay sooner rather than later— especially if you’re traveling in the high season over the summer. Rooms tend to go quickly! Making reservations in advance is especially important for anyone trying to keep their budget low as cheap accommodations tend to book up. That being said, Portugal overall tends to be a more economic European country to visit if you’re looking to stretch your pennies.  

Budget

LX Hostel — prime location in LX Factory with a fun rooftop bar

Yes! Hostel — prime location just off Rua Augusta, short walk to the Tagus River 

Home Lisbon Hostel — prime location in the Baixa neighborhood with a tasty diner

Good Morning Solo Traveler Hostel — another amazing location in the Baixa neighborhood  

Mid-Range

Alfama Lovely View Apartment Airbnb — prime location in Alfama neighborhood with an awesome view (we stayed here and loved it!)

Nosolomio Castle Apartment TopFloor 5 Airbnb — prime location in Alfama neighborhood with fun balcony and view 

Epic Sana Lisboa — prime location with fab rooftop pool 

Lumen Hotel — prime location with awesome rooftop pool 

Luxe

Memmo Príncipe Real — a polished 5-star hotel nestled into a hill in the Bairro Alto neighborhood 

Bairro Alto Hotel — a chic, boutique 5-star hotel in Bairro Alto with a dreamy terrace 

Brown’s | Avenue Hotel — a modern 5-star hotel combining comfort, luxury, and cosmopolitan charm 

The Lumiares Hotel & Spa — a hip 5-star hotel with colorful, Lisbon-influenced decor and an airy rooftop bar 

*hot tip: if a spendy hotel is out of budget, you can always go grab dinner or a drink at a posh spot to enjoy the views and the luxe ambiance for a couple hours 

DAY ONE 

I hope your legs are fresh and ready for a full day of walking around and seeing the sights! Not only will the step count be high, but Lisbon is a rather hilly city. You won’t be missing any workouts today! For those a little nervous about a day full of walking, Lisbon has a pretty adept public transit system that’s easy for tourists to navigate. Our wandering today keeps us largely in the Alfama neighborhood (walking map here). 

National Pantheon 

To get things started, the National Pantheon is a must see national monument. The high central dome and overtures of Portuguese Baroque architecture make this church turned tomb yet another eye-catching historical locale. Not only is the dome memorable in design, but it also affords a 360–degree view of the city. We’re all about exploring historic roots AND a good viewpoint. The National Pantheon delivers both in spades!

IGREJA DE Sao Vicente de Fora

The Monastery Sao Vicente de Fora is another significant building in Lisbon, steeped in historic roots and shaped by the passing of time. Its roots date back to 1147 but the reconstruction across centuries left it with a Mannerism façade, reminiscent of late Renaissance architecture. So worth paying €5 to go inside and wander around, but at the very least you have to stop by and see the outside of this gorgeous monastery and pop in the back to see the internal architecture as well (free).  

Graça Viewpoint

Also known as ‘Miradouro Sophia de Mello’, this viewpoint might just be the best in the city. You can see so much of Lisbon… from the Castelo de São Jorge to all the apricot rooftops to the Tagus sparkling in the distance and everything in between. While there’s no cost to see the viewpoint, you have to put in a bit of sweat equity as you climb the stairs to get there. If you’re looking to stop and stay a while— maybe sip on a morning coffee— Esplanada de Grace is a lovely cafe right next to the viewpoint that makes for a charming post to relax for a moment. 

Lisbon Cathedral 

The goal for today is to hunt down all the national monuments in Lisbon— kidding… if only there was the time! The Lisbon Cathedral is the next compilation of historical, architectural, religious and spiritual sentiment on the docket. Inside this illustrious cathedral you will find religious relics and artifacts. If you get excited by digging deeper into religion, you’ll definitely want to take the time to explore the interior of the cathedral.

For others less keen on religious history, it’s certainly worth meandering in to take a peak but further internal exploration can be omitted. The day goes fast, so you might have to pick and choose your investment of time at various stops. 

Rua Augusta

Rua Augusta is the main commercial drag in downtown Lisbon, but with some pizazz! Stretching from Rossio Square to the Praca do Comercio, you’ll find fashion, food, performers, and so much more along this stretch. The iconic Rua Augusta Arch is a hard-to-miss ornate stone archway that exists on the Praca do Comercio end of the street. It was built as a symbol of resiliency following the 1755 earthquake, and stands today adorned with historical figures, allegorical figures, and latin inscriptions. 

As you’re walking along the Rua Augusta, you have an easy detour option: the Santa Justa Lift. If there’s no wait, we encourage you to hop on board and soar to the top as this particular tourist attraction typically has a 30+ minute wait (in high season). Having the character-rich elevator ride is the ideal choice, but if your legs aren’t too tuckered out yet, you can always climb the stairs up to the same viewing platform the lift stops at. 

Praca do Comercio

Once you’ve shopped, snacked, and explored your way along the Rua Augusta, you’ll find yourself in the Praca do Comercio— also known as the Terreiro do Paço— translates to ‘Commerce Plaza’. This area used to house the state department and Supreme Court of Portugal; however, now it’s more museums, culinary treats, and welcome centers than political powerhouse. This bustling square is a melting pot of historic grandeur, niched cafes, and waterfront views. 

The plaza opens up to the Tagus River, with a small beach area if you’re looking to cool your jets. It’s more of an ankle wading, playing in the sand, and taking in views of the 25 de Abril Bridge kind of beach than it is a spot to swim, but it’s still refreshing and lovely!

Miradouro de Santa Luzia & Miradouro das Portas do Sol 

Miradouro de Santa Luzia and Miradouro das Portas do Sol are two viewpoints only steps away from one another, and both equally worth visiting as they provide slightly different vantage points.

Between the two, Miradouro de Santa Luzia has a prettier terrace, with the blue and white azulejo tiles Portugal is known for; however, the openness of the Portal do Sol terrace makes it a bit better to snag the perfect picture. Right around the corner from Portas do Sol you’ll find a coffee and cocktail bar with a fabulous view— what’s better than a view with a drink in hand?!

Castelo de São Jorge

Last but not least? The mighty Castelo de São Jorge! This national monument has been remodeled and reconstructed over the years, but its origins date back to the Iron Age. At its elevated perch, the castle is visible all throughout the Alfama neighborhood, so getting to see it or rather knowing what it is when you see it, makes it a helpful and beautiful landmark! 

Hot take: the iconic Castelo de São Jorge isn’t the most noteworthy spot. From its position overlooking the city, it calls to curious tourists, but we found there’s not loads to see in the castle. The redeeming pearl that makes it worth the price of admission?? A beautiful view of Lisbon! However, there’s other (arguably better) viewpoints that won’t cost you a penny! 

Wining & Dining

The self-paced walking expedition is organized to walk you through in a loop that takes an hour to an hour and a half— but that’s before you stop to take in what each spot has to offer. By the time you’ve conquered your daily allotment of stairs and uphill climbs, you just might be ready to head back to your hotel or Airbnb to cool off in the AC and give your feet a rest.

The time of year will dictate how the rest of your evening goes. If you’re visiting in the summer, you have time to grab dinner and a drink somewhere because the sun doesn’t set until almost 9pm. In the winter months, you might want to catch the sunset first and then grab dinner. 

Miradouro da Senhora do Monte 

Miradouro da Senhora do Monte is arguably the best spot in the city to watch the sunset. You’ll be glad you took a little evening rest because, as with most of the viewpoints in the city, you do have a bit of a climb ahead of you. But man oh man is it worth it!!! Watching the sun set over the city is just the most amazing way to end your first day. This spot will fill up, so it doesn’t hurt to get there 30 minutes before sunset to ensure you can snag a good spot! 

L’ape Italian Lounge is the perfect pre-sunset dinner spot as it’s just a short walk from the viewpoint and the caprese bruschetta and lasagna are live-rent-free-in-my-mind amazing.

Free Walking Tours

If you love the idea of a wandering walking tour of the city but are keen to have a guide, check out the free walking tour options! The tours run about three hours so you can listen and learn, but also still have time to do your own exploration. While there is no specific cost associated with the tour, the guides do make money off of tips, so if you go and you enjoy it, be sure to show them a little love. 

Tours are an awesome because there’s not much information posted outside theres historic buildings, so if you want to learn more, you need to either head inside and explore or have a guide provide you with the spark notes!

DAY TWO 

Today your travels will bring you to the southwestern-most district of Lisbon: Belém! While it’s totally possible to walk the hour and a half there, a tram ride or uber will get you there in about 10-15 minutes, so in order to make the most of your time, we recommend using the automated transportation of your choice to expedite your commute. You’ll still get your steps for the day in as the following itinerary will keep you moving and shaking!

Belém Tower 

The iconic Belém Tower stands tall in the waters of the Tagus. Once the ceremonial gateway of Lisbon, this 16th century defense system makes for a perfect way to start your day. Its picturesque architecture is reminiscent of a castle, with a walkway-moat for visitors to cross and explore the interior. Tours inside are options if you’re itching to see more.

Padrão dos Descobrimentos

Padrão dos Descobrimentos translates to Monument of Discoveries, and was built as a celebration of the Portuguese Age of Exploration during the 15th and 16th centuries. This is a bit of an opportunity for a choose-your-own adventure. We just stopped by and looked at the monument from the outside on our way to the Jerónimos Monastery, but tickets to the the exhibition, viewpoint, and educational film are super reasonable if you have time for a bit more wandering. 

Jerónimos Monastery

A couple minutes down the road, you’ll find the stately Jerónimos Monastery. The late Portuguese Gothic Manueline architecture makes exploring the inside of the castle a must— worth is just to appreciate the vast and ornate cloister! A word to the wise: arrive early and order your tickets in advance so you don’t waste time waiting in line. Jerónimos Monastery and Belem Tower together are one of five UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Portugal. While it may seem like there’s loads of historic stops on our sight-seeing bucket list, they’re all unique and worth the individual stops. 

Pastéis de Belém

Often imitated, never duplicated, Pastéis de Belém has been making pastries since 1837. The original pastel recipe was created in the Jerónimos Monastery, but when the monastery closed in 1833, the pasteis de belem lived on in a small cafe just down the road. This patented egg tart pastry is made by hand every day in Pastéis de Belém— if you like custard delights, you absolutely must stop and sample one of these tasty treats! You’ll see them sold in bakeries all over the country, but this is said to be the original recipe for their inception.

cristo rei

Time for a bit of zig-zagging— across the river that is! Head over to Almada to take in the Cristo Rei (picture above). While I haven’t been to Rio to see Christ Redeemer, Dana was just there a few months ago (pictured below). She can confirm that they are quite different, but still very much worth visiting. Even if you have no interest in the statue of Christ, it’s rather fun to drive across the 25 de Abril Bridge. Even more impressive is the view of Lisbon for the other side of the river!!!

To make the most of your time, we recommend ubering here as well as back across the river when you’re done taking it all in. It will be a little more expensive than you’d expect (we generally found ubers in Portugal to be pretty cheap)— just because there’s a toll to cross the bridge, but overall worth it for the economy of time.

LX Factory 

As you arrive back across the river, make your way to the LX Factory. This isn’t a production facility, but more of a factory of experiences. LX Factory houses restaurants, bars, coffee shops, retail, and office spaces, making it a lovely spot to explore small business in the community. There’s loads of fun shops and eateries to check out, as well as Livraria Ler Devagar… a fun bookstore— with floor to ceiling options for you to peruse! The only downside? Most of the books are in Portuguese (as they should be)!

Fado Show 

Fado is a folk-style music with multi-cultural origins; however one thing is for certain: it’s a staple in the Lisbon entertainment scene! The overarching artistic themes of love and destiny prevail, but you absolutely must go listen to truly understand. Restaurants called ‘Fado Houses’ serve dinner and employ artists to perform every night. The Fado performances are more than just background music– conversation comes to a halt and the guests savor the cultural experience. Tickets can get a little spendy, but if you love local, live music, this would be a must-do activity!  

Lisbon Food: 

Food recommendations can be a little tricky as everyone has their own personal taste, and Lisbon has SO MANY options for food. These were all places we tried and loved or spots that were recommended to us!

Il Mercato Páteo Bagatela — Italian

La Bonne Crepe — Crepes 

New Himalaia Restaurante — Nepalese food

STŌ Mercearia — Croquettes

Floresta Das Escadinhas — Portuguese

Rose Stupa Restaurant — Indian food 

Tasca Mastai — Mediterranean 

TOPO MARTIM MONIZ — rooftop cocktail bar 

TimeOut Market — multiple restaurants housed in one building (like an upscale food court) 

Lisboa Card

Lisbon offers a “city pass” type card that provides free and reduced price of admission into many of the key tourist attractions. In addition, it also provides one with free use of all metro, trams, buses, lifts, buses, and trains within the general Lisbon area (i.e. will cover your train in and around Lisbon and even out to Sintra but not all the way up to Porto). While a Lisboa cardholder has access to all the free and discounted rates, the card itself comes at a price— which varies depending on how long you plan to use it. 

24 hours48 hours72 hours
Adults€21,00 €35,00€44,00
Children €13,50 €19,50€23,00

The Lisboa Card can be purchased here. If you decide this is an option that makes sense for your trip agenda, make the purchase! Moments later, you will receive an email with a voucher redeemable upon arrival in Lisbon at the Lisboa Welcome Center, Foz Palace, or Lisboa Airport for your very own Lisboa Card. Just FYI, these are totally fine to purchase in advance— the card is valid for a full 365 days after its purchase date and is validated upon its first use.

A gentle word of caution would be to look at your plan for the day and decide if you’d truly save money with the Lisboa Card, or if it would actually cost you more. It will provide free entrance into some places but in other places it only offers a 10% discount. Don’t just assume it’s going to get you in everywhere for free! I will say, if you are daunted by the hilly nature of Lisbon and the extent of walking required in this itinerary, you might enjoy the unlimited access to the city transit!

But Wait, There’s More

While two days is enough to pack in the big highlights of Lisbon, we actually recommend staying in the city for at least three days. Why? Lisbon’s surrounding cities have some incredible day trips to explore. From castles to world class surfing, this pocket of Portugal just keeps drawing you in for more! The following cities can be explored individually or as part of a combined touring adventure. We’ve linked a few tours that might be helpful to facilitate your outside-the-big-city exploration. 

Sintra

Both whimsical and extravagant, this historic town is home to a UNESCO World Heritage site and so many vibrant castles. You can either take the train to Sintra and explore on your own or visit with a guide service (tour options here). The vibrant Pena Palace alone is worth making the trek for!

Cascais

This Portuguese fishing town turned resort town boasts bustling beaches and historic monuments alike. It’s also a popular surfing spot! You can explore your tour options here

Nazaré

Known as a fishing town with amazing ocean views and a 17th century baroque church, this town lets you pull away from the crows and enjoy nature’s beauty. Perhaps most illustrious is Praia do Norte, which is famed for its surfing conditions! Check out your tour options here

Berlenga Islands

A small archipelago about 8 miles off the coast of Peniche, these islands are home to marine life and birds that thrive amongst its cliffs and ocean ecosystem. Berlenga Grande is accessible only by boat, which adds to the thrill of adventure. It also means this area is best explored with a tour guide

Where to pick largely depends on your overall Portugal itinerary. If you’re only spending time in Lisbon, you might enjoy taking the time to go see the Atlantic coastline. We knew we were going to spend time down on the Algarve coast, so we deferred some of the Lisbon adjacent coast/beach towns in favor of Sintra and all her castles. As such we can say with confidence that it’s an AMAZING way to spend that day, but you really won’t regret any of your choices for exploration! 


Lisbon offers rich character, amazing views, delicious food, and profound history. Two or three days here will fly by! Where are you headed next? Will your travels take you to Porto, Portugal’s wine country (check out our Porto blog post here)? Or perhaps go take in the gorgeous southern coastline in the Algarve?? It’s amazing how each region embodies the Portuguese landscape and culture in a different way. Happy travels!


written by Hannah 

Hannah has learned the hard way to be careful what you wish for— sometimes happily ever after lands you with a husband and puppy… in the Midwest.  Despite leaving Florida to move to Wisconsin,  Hannah maintains her bossy big sister role with regular phone calls to keep up with all the little sister shenanigans. Notoriously chatty with her patients as well, Hannah stays busy as a physical therapist, but loves spending weekends exploring newfound hikes.


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