Channel Islands National Park encompasses a small five-island archipelago and the expanse of ocean that surrounds them, off the coast of southern California. This rugged yet enchanting landscape is home to one-of-a-kind plants and animals– found nowhere else on the planet. The rustic charm and cultural identity of the Channel Islands make this national park unique in the midst of California’s impressive array of national parks. Located approximately 12 miles off the coast, Santa Cruz is the easiest of the islands to reach. Not only that, it tends to have the most amenable weather as well as the most opportunity for recreational exploration… all the best ingredients for memorable backpacking escapades.
What makes Santa Cruz Island extra special? The remote and wild island may not have any restaurants or concessions, but it boasts quite the seascape. The Pacific ocean is an alluring backdrop to the unforgettable island coastline— the perfect amalgamation of tranquility and pristine panoramas that make for the ideal backpacking adventure. In addition to the natural beauty, Santa Cruz is historically and ecologically meaningful as well. Santa Cruz was once home to the Chumash Indians and remains the only home of the island scrub-jay-only as well as some small island foxes. We were lucky enough to see both while we were there– as well as lots of yarrow, fennel, and California sage bush!
Fast Facts About channel islands National Park
Size: 249,561 acres
Visitors: 328,746 visitors (data from 2023)
Distance from LA: 1-1.5 hour drive + a ferry ride
Became a National Park: March 5th, 1980
Highest point: Diablo Peak at 2,450 ft (on Santa Cruz Island)
Fun Fact: in 2023 there were 23,881 visitors that camped in the backcountry
While I’ve done my fair share of camping before, this was my first non-Army backpacking trip for pleasure. Having a tent, sleeping pad, and jetboil is fancy digs!! The rolling 1,500ft total climb certainly wasn’t easy peasy but the untouched, remote wilderness is hard to beat and so very worth the sweat equity.
Ferry Ferry, Quite Contrary
The rather remote nature of the park means a little extra time and coordination is necessary to plan your arrival. The ferry to Santa Cruz Island is operated by Island Packers. The ferry departs from Ventura Harbor and takes a little over an hour to reach Scorpion Cove. While this is the more popular of the two stops, you’ll want to sit tight a little longer. The ferry waits ~20 minutes to allow everyone time to disembark before cruising to its second destination. About 30 minutes later, you’ll find yourself at Prisoner’s Harbor. Overall you can expect the ferry time to be about 2 hours.
important notes:
- you MUST bring all the water you anticipate needing with you onto the ferry because there is no water available at Prisoner’s Harbor and there’s definitely not a tap at the back country campground.
- On the ferry, fuel and water cannot stay in your pack → the packs get stacked, so you don’t want the water bursting. Your water should be either in bladders (place in the back of the boat you can store it) or you can also bring gallons and distribute it when you arrive on the island.
- When you check in for your ferry, they give you physical tickets to get on the ferry both ways aka do not lose your return ticket!!!
- Double check your return time!! Some of them are only 30 min off from one another, but you have to get on the right time (aka actually aim for 30 min early) or else there won’t be enough room for everyone. You don’t want to get left behind!
These Boots Were Made for Walking
Once everyone’s off the ferry, it’s time to get those packs all ready to go! If you plan to bring extra water (to consume after you’ve returned but before you depart on the ferry again) there are fox boxes to store your water in to ensure it’s safe from the wildlife. Just for planning and packing purposes, one gallon of water per person per day is recommended.
Del Norte is a backcountry campground a little over 3 miles from the Harbor. Getting there requires navigating a bit of a rolling hill landscape as you’ll find yourself climbing, descending, and climbing again, for a total elevation gain of around 1,000’. There’s only 4 campsites, and even in April, it was warm enough that we were glad to have the two campsites in the shade! Reservations are required in advance… it’s a bit too long of a trek to be a first come first serve campsite! Reservations are easiest to make online (link here), but you can also call to reserve a campsite (877) 444-6777.
Campfires are prohibited, but jetboils are very much allowed, so it’s still very possible to enjoy a nice hot dinner. The picnic tables make for a breezy spot to relax and play cards together. It’s a lovely spot to spend the evening together, and perfect for stargazing into the night.
Prisoner’s Harbor and Del Norte exude peace and make it easy to imagine what a simple life would have been like hundreds of years ago. The simplicity can be quite the reprieve from the every-day hustle and bustle, but it also means you’ll need to bring EVERYTHING you need with you. This is by no means an inclusive packing list, but here’s a handful of things you’ll be glad to have with you regardless of the time of year!
Packing Up and Packing Out
When morning rolls around, it’s time for a spot of breakfast and then packing everything back up! The trail to the Del Norte campground is an out and back, so you shouldn’t feel too worried about getting lost on the way back— it should all be rather familiar to you.
If you’re wanting to take the path less traveled, there is an option to come back a different way, if you are so inclined (we highlighted this below). Just in general downloading the trail on AllTrails was nice to have, just as a safeguard against any accidental wandering off the intended path.
Keep on Keepin’ On
Once you make it back to Prisoner’s Harbor, take a little break and enjoy a snack because you’ve got more hiking on the itinerary! The ferry should be back by 11am at the latest, which is worth noting because there’s a naturalist aboard that will lead a guided hike (pro-tip: sign the waiver right after you buy your ferry ticket so you don’t have to worry about this later)!
The hike is along the Pelican Bay trail, and is less of a hike to a specific destination and more of a let’s-enjoy-the-journey hike. This can be a perfect opportunity to spot wildlife! We saw a small Island fox while we were on this hike– this fox only exists on Santa Cruz Island!! The Island Scrub Jay is also found only on Santa Cruz and is more commonly seen around Prisoner’s Harbor!
Shippin’ Out
The ferry typically leaves to head back a little after 3pm, so even if you explore along the Pelican Bay trail, you’ll find yourself with a little extra time. We just went down and relaxed in and by the water, but if you bring a snorkel mask, there’s a kelp forest along the shoreline worth exploring. While sea kayaking is a popular activity on Santa Cruz, this is more commonly pursued on the east side of the island, near Scorpion’s Cove.
Before you know it, it’ll be time for the ferry to head back to the mainland, so soak up all the secluded serenity while you can! Keep your eyes peeled as you head back— we spotted a mama whale and her calf on our way back…. an incredible experience!!
Alternate Options
While we found the one-night backpacking trip to be a perfect sampling of Santa Cruz, here’s a few other ideas for folks a little less inclined to backpack or camp overnight.
- If you hop off the ferry at Scorpion Anchorage, you’ll want to check out the Potato Harbor Overlook hike. This out-and-back hike clocks in at just over 5 miles, with 660’ of elevation, making it moderately challenging, but nothing too tricky. Definitely worth the effort to take in the gorgeous vista!
- Have you ever been sea kayaking? Santa Barbara Adventure Company is the only company on Santa Cruz Island that offers guided kayaking trips. This is another Scorpion Anchorage stop, and it’s the perfect way to take in the iconic caves of the Santa Cruz coastline. Depending on your comfortability in a kayak, there’s a few different options regarding length of time out on the water. They also offer snorkel rentals and guided snorkeling tours!
- Island Packers doesn’t just ferry people back and forth, you can opt for a nice day trip adventure with them. After departing from Ventura, you cruise into the Painted Cave, experiencing one of the biggest sea caves in the world. The colorful cave is named for the naturally occurring pigmentations, derived from various rock types and algae that make up its walls. The cave is also home to varied sealife as well– keep your eyes peeled for seals! After the cave exploration, the boat will head over to Prisoner’s Harbor to do the Pelican Bay trail hike (same one we did!). From there you’ll get to head back to Ventura.
final thoughts
Santa Cruz Island, particularly Prison’s Harbor, is an almost-untouched sliver of California’s coastline that calls back to a bygone era of symbiosis between nature and the Chumash Indians that once inhabited. The wild island and its impressive seascape make for an amazing backpacking trip– you won’t regret making the trek out!
Our friend made a lil vlog of our memorable backpacking adventure— check it out here!
If remote, warm island parks are your jam, we sure to check out Dry Tortugas National Park the next time you’re near the Florida Keys!
written by Kayla
A literal life saving queen, Kayla Grace is an Army nurse in Fort Irwin, California. When she’s not fixing up folks up in the emergency department, she is likely to be found running, walking, or hiking outside. She also has quite the green thumb and keeps all her plants alive… not just surviving but thriving! Before moving to CA, Kayla was stationed in Washington for a few years, where she discovered her her love for camping and the general woodland-fairy ambiance she exudes while out adventuring. Still rather new to the southern California region, Kayla is in her desert-girl era, exploring her new state with gusto.
