national park travel - Five Wandering Soles

Channel Islands National Park encompasses a small five-island archipelago and the expanse of ocean that surrounds them, off the coast of southern California. This rugged yet enchanting landscape is home to one-of-a-kind plants and animals– found nowhere else on the planet. The rustic charm and cultural identity of the Channel Islands make this national park unique in the midst of California’s impressive array of national parks. Located approximately 12 miles off the coast, Santa Cruz is the easiest of the islands to reach. Not only that, it tends to have the most amenable weather as well as the most opportunity for recreational exploration… all the best ingredients for memorable backpacking escapades.

What makes Santa Cruz Island extra special? The remote and wild island may not have any restaurants or concessions, but it boasts quite the seascape. The Pacific ocean is an alluring backdrop to the unforgettable island coastline— the perfect amalgamation of tranquility and pristine panoramas that make for the ideal backpacking adventure. In addition to the natural beauty, Santa Cruz is historically and ecologically meaningful as well. Santa Cruz was once home to the Chumash Indians and remains the only home of the island scrub-jay-only as well as some small island foxes. We were lucky enough to see both while we were there– as well as lots of yarrow, fennel, and California sage bush!

Fast Facts About channel islands National Park

Size: 249,561 acres

Visitors: 328,746 visitors (data from 2023)

Distance from LA: 1-1.5 hour drive + a ferry ride

Became a National Park: March 5th, 1980

Highest point: Diablo Peak at 2,450 ft (on Santa Cruz Island)

Fun Fact: in 2023 there were 23,881 visitors that camped in the backcountry

While I’ve done my fair share of camping before, this was my first non-Army backpacking trip for pleasure. Having a tent, sleeping pad, and jetboil is fancy digs!! The rolling 1,500ft total climb certainly wasn’t easy peasy but the untouched, remote wilderness is hard to beat and so very worth the sweat equity.

Ferry Ferry, Quite Contrary

The rather remote nature of the park means a little extra time and coordination is necessary to plan your arrival. The ferry to Santa Cruz Island is operated by Island Packers. The ferry departs from Ventura Harbor and takes a little over an hour to reach Scorpion Cove. While this is the more popular of the two stops, you’ll want to sit tight a little longer. The ferry waits ~20 minutes to allow everyone time to disembark before cruising to its second destination. About 30 minutes later, you’ll find yourself at Prisoner’s Harbor. Overall you can expect the ferry time to be about 2 hours.

important notes:

you MUST bring all the water you anticipate needing with you onto the ferry because there is no water available at Prisoner’s Harbor and there’s definitely not a tap at the back country campground.
On the ferry, fuel and water cannot stay in your pack → the packs get stacked, so you don’t want the water bursting. Your water should be either in bladders (place in the back of the boat you can store it) or you can also bring gallons and distribute it when you arrive on the island.
When you check in for your ferry, they give you physical tickets to get on the ferry both ways aka do not lose your return ticket!!!
Double check your return time!! Some of them are only 30 min off from one another, but you have to get on the right time (aka actually aim for 30 min early) or else there won’t be enough room for everyone. You don’t want to get left behind!

These Boots Were Made for Walking

Once everyone’s off the ferry, it’s time to get those packs all ready to go! If you plan to bring extra water (to consume after you’ve returned but before you depart on the ferry again) there are fox boxes to store your water in to ensure it’s safe from the wildlife. Just for planning and packing purposes, one gallon of water per person per day is recommended.

Del Norte is a backcountry campground a little over 3 miles from the Harbor. Getting there requires navigating a bit of a rolling hill landscape as you’ll find yourself climbing, descending, and climbing again, for a total elevation gain of around 1,000’. There’s only 4 campsites, and even in April, it was warm enough that we were glad to have the two campsites in the shade! Reservations are required in advance… it’s a bit too long of a trek to be a first come first serve campsite! Reservations are easiest to make online (link here), but you can also call to reserve a campsite (877) 444-6777.

Campfires are prohibited, but jetboils are very much allowed, so it’s still very possible to enjoy a nice hot dinner. The picnic tables make for a breezy spot to relax and play cards together. It’s a lovely spot to spend the evening together, and perfect for stargazing into the night.

Prisoner’s Harbor and Del Norte exude peace and make it easy to imagine what a simple life would have been like hundreds of years ago. The simplicity can be quite the reprieve from the every-day hustle and bustle, but it also means you’ll need to bring EVERYTHING you need with you. This is by no means an inclusive packing list, but here’s a handful of things you’ll be glad to have with you regardless of the time of year!

Packing Up and Packing Out

When morning rolls around, it’s time for a spot of breakfast and then packing everything back up! The trail to the Del Norte campground is an out and back, so you shouldn’t feel too worried about getting lost on the way back— it should all be rather familiar to you.

If you’re wanting to take the path less traveled, there is an option to come back a different way, if you are so inclined (we highlighted this below). Just in general downloading the trail on AllTrails was nice to have, just as a safeguard against any accidental wandering off the intended path.

Keep on Keepin’ On

Once you make it back to Prisoner’s Harbor, take a little break and enjoy a snack because you’ve got more hiking on the itinerary! The ferry should be back by 11am at the latest, which is worth noting because there’s a naturalist aboard that will lead a guided hike (pro-tip: sign the waiver right after you buy your ferry ticket so you don’t have to worry about this later)!

The hike is along the Pelican Bay trail, and is less of a hike to a specific destination and more of a let’s-enjoy-the-journey hike. This can be a perfect opportunity to spot wildlife! We saw a small Island fox while we were on this hike– this fox only exists on Santa Cruz Island!! The Island Scrub Jay is also found only on Santa Cruz and is more commonly seen around Prisoner’s Harbor!

Shippin’ Out

The ferry typically leaves to head back a little after 3pm, so even if you explore along the Pelican Bay trail, you’ll find yourself with a little extra time. We just went down and relaxed in and by the water, but if you bring a snorkel mask, there’s a kelp forest along the shoreline worth exploring. While sea kayaking is a popular activity on Santa Cruz, this is more commonly pursued on the east side of the island, near Scorpion’s Cove.

Before you know it, it’ll be time for the ferry to head back to the mainland, so soak up all the secluded serenity while you can! Keep your eyes peeled as you head back— we spotted a mama whale and her calf on our way back…. an incredible experience!!

Alternate Options

While we found the one-night backpacking trip to be a perfect sampling of Santa Cruz, here’s a few other ideas for folks a little less inclined to backpack or camp overnight.

If you hop off the ferry at Scorpion Anchorage, you’ll want to check out the Potato Harbor Overlook hike. This out-and-back hike clocks in at just over 5 miles, with 660’ of elevation, making it moderately challenging, but nothing too tricky. Definitely worth the effort to take in the gorgeous vista!
Have you ever been sea kayaking? Santa Barbara Adventure Company is the only company on Santa Cruz Island that offers guided kayaking trips. This is another Scorpion Anchorage stop, and it’s the perfect way to take in the iconic caves of the Santa Cruz coastline. Depending on your comfortability in a kayak, there’s a few different options regarding length of time out on the water. They also offer snorkel rentals and guided snorkeling tours!
Island Packers doesn’t just ferry people back and forth, you can opt for a nice day trip adventure with them. After departing from Ventura, you cruise into the Painted Cave, experiencing one of the biggest sea caves in the world. The colorful cave is named for the naturally occurring pigmentations, derived from various rock types and algae that make up its walls. The cave is also home to varied sealife as well– keep your eyes peeled for seals! After the cave exploration, the boat will head over to Prisoner’s Harbor to do the Pelican Bay trail hike (same one we did!). From there you’ll get to head back to Ventura.

the memorable Prisoner's harbor with a simple dock and the hilly green backdrop

final thoughts

Santa Cruz Island, particularly Prison’s Harbor, is an almost-untouched sliver of California’s coastline that calls back to a bygone era of symbiosis between nature and the Chumash Indians that once inhabited. The wild island and its impressive seascape make for an amazing backpacking trip– you won’t regret making the trek out!

Our friend made a lil vlog of our memorable backpacking adventure— check it out here!

If remote, warm island parks are your jam, we sure to check out Dry Tortugas National Park the next time you’re near the Florida Keys!

written by Kayla

A literal life saving queen, Kayla Grace is an Army nurse in Fort Irwin, California. When she’s not fixing up folks up in the emergency department, she is likely to be found running, walking, or hiking outside. She also has quite the green thumb and keeps all her plants alive… not just surviving but thriving! Before moving to CA, Kayla was stationed in Washington for a few years, where she discovered her her love for camping and the general woodland-fairy ambiance she exudes while out adventuring. Still rather new to the southern California region, Kayla is in her desert-girl era, exploring her new state with gusto.

Does an urban national park sound like an oxymoron? While national parks usually embody sprawling, untouched wilderness, the Gateway Arch breaks the mold as it celebrates the Westward expansion of the United States. This eye-catching memorial is the tallest man-made monument in the United States, designed by architect Eero Saarinen. There were over 170 unique designs; however, his particularly memorable design was chosen and has stood the test of time since its inception in 1963.

St. Louis is home to the one and only Gateway Arch National Park, making this park much easier to reach and robustly experience than others in the repertoire. While it might not take your breath away quite like the staggering beauty of some of the other larger, more natural parks, there’s a certain charm to the historic reminder of our country’s growth. While eager history and architecture buffs would likely be keen to make a day of it, for most, a half day is the perfect amount of time to allot for visiting the Gateway Arch National Park.

Fast Facts About GATEWAY ARCH National Park

Size: 91 acres

Visitors: 1,618,774 visitors (data from 2022)

Became a National Park: Feb. 23, 2018

Highest point: the top of the arch is 630 ft high — interestingly it’s also 630 feet wide from leg to leg

The upside of the park’s small stature is that it’s rather easy to get the full experience in a half-day visit. We swung through driving back up to Wisconsin, and this was baby Xavier’s first national park visit. While he *technically* visited Indiana Dunes, Rocky Mountain, and Olympic National Parks in utero, the Gateway Arch made for a very un-intimidating first national park for us to visit with him. I must say, he’s a hard man to impress… he had the audacity to try and sleep through the whole thing!!

Park vs Monument… the NPS tea

The Gateway Arch is the tallest monument in the United States, but that begs the question… why is it a national park and not a national monument? There’s not a great answer for this name change and corresponding national park designation, as they were decided upon in Congress. Interestingly, the National Park Service did have something to say on the matter submitted a statement to the hearing on the legislation for the name change that said:

“… the National Park Service strives to provide consistency in the naming of park units. To better align with the standard nomenclature for units of the National Park System, we recommend that Congress re-designate the unit as “Gateway Arch National Monument.” National parks contain a variety of resources and encompass large land or water areas to help provide adequate protection of the resources. The existing 59 designated national parks protect at a minimum thousands of acres each, and some span millions of acres. At only 91 federal acres, we believe that the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial is too small and limited in the range of resources the site protects and interprets to be called a national park.’”

This makes Gateway Arch National Park the only urban national park in the repertoire– certainly unique, but also setting an interesting precedent for future designations. Will this remain the only smaller, more urban national park or will others join its ranks in the years to come? Only time will tell!

When To Visit

While the most popular time of year to visit is in the spring and summer months, we stopped by on a beautiful day in January and very much recommend a mid-winter visit. There were no lines to deal with, and even on a more frigid day, so much of what you come to see is indoors, so the time of year is less important.

TIME TO EXPLORE

Depending on where you’re coming from, getting into the arch may be a bit counter-intuitive. If you head over right from the designated parking garage, you won’t have any problem wandering to the west entrance, which faces Fourth Street and the Old Courthouse. If you’re out walking along the river, the entry point is *not* in the base of either arch; however, you can exit from the arch legs, which sometimes confuses people.

Tickets

Upon entering the building, the ticket counter is easy to spot. If you plan to visit in the spring or summer months – especially on a weekend day, you should consider purchasing your tickets in advance, to ensure you’ll be able to make it up!

Security

With your ticket in hand, the next step will be going through security. Think of a more-relaxed version of TSA. You’ll have to empty your pockets and step through a scanner, but no one is going to make you dump out your water bottle. As an important note, no weapons, including pepper spray and fixed-blade knives (except fold-out pocket knives with a blade size less than 4″) are allowed, so if you keep pepper spray on your keychain or in your purse, you’ll want to make sure that stays in the car. Even if you don’t plan to take the tram ride, you will still need to go through the security checkpoint to get to the museum, cafe, documentary movie, and gift shop areas.

Museum of Westward Expansion

The museum is quite lovely to wander through, and rather engaging for visitors of all ages with its interactive displays and exhibits. Not only are there exhibits detailing the nuances of westward expansion in US history, but there’s a rather interesting section about the arch architecture. It’s fun to see the runner-up designs and learn more about the unique tram system that carries visitors to the top. Depending on how early you arrive before your tram time, you can explore the museum before or after you ride… or both!

a memorable museum exhibit, demonstrating the history of the icon Gateway arch

Tram

Once you’re through the museum, the lower level space opens up, and you can head on down to get your tram ticket scanned. As the group awaits the arrival of all its participants, everyone is provided a boarding pass of sorts for their individual tram. Each tram can hold up to 5 people, but man oh man would that be a snug fit to put five grown adults in one tram car. I’m not sure how things go over the summer, but it was definitely nice that groups were more dispersed.

After everyone in the group has arrived, there’s a short background history of the arch provided, and then everyone is led over to their assigned tram. The ride up goes quickly, only taking a couple minutes.

The windows at the top are a little small, but it’s rather amazing to peer out of the Mississippi River and the city of St. Louis and realize you’re doing so from the top of the arch. Everyone has ample time (about 8-10 minutes) to look around, read some of the signage, and take a picture or two, and then it’s time to head back down. The descent is just slightly speedier than the ascent, and in no time at all, your back– boots on the ground!

Once you’ve ridden the tram, it’s worth a couple minutes of your time to pop back into the museum and read about the unique transportation system constructed to carry people up the arch… it’s one of a kind!

The Extras

We really enjoyed reading, watching, and listening in the museum, but if you’re keen to learn more, there’s a documentary movie you can check out (showtimes here). While tickets aren’t free, it’s likely the cheapest movie ticket you’ve bought in a while! You can also head over to the gift store to collect your passport stamp and pick up any mementos you might desire. There’s a little virtual reality experience you can check out as well– looks like something that could be fun for kiddos.

There’s a cafe if you’re feel pecking, but it’s worth noting, the upside of being an urban national park is that there’s a whole bunch of dining options within easy walking distance

The Old Courthouse

Once you’ve had your fill of arch exploration, you can head over to the courthouse. What is so special about this courthouse? It was the site of not one but two cases that became formative to the cultural landscape. In 1847 Dred and Harriet Scott, an enslaved couple, sued for and were granted their freedom. This case went through appeals and ended up going before the Supreme Court, which overturned the original verdict, stating that since slaves were property they didn’t have the right to sue. BIG YIKES. This case is reflective of culture in the United States at the time and is thought to be one of the precipitating factors of the Civil War.

It’s also where Virginia Minor and her husband sued for her right to vote. She went on to become a huge advocate for suffrage rights for women.

The historic courthouse is currently closed as it undergoes a multi-million dollar renovation project. That being said, it’s set to be finished by 2025, and should be quite impressive whenever it’s completed.

Riverboat Rides

Not exactly a park experience, but you can take in the Mississippi River and view the Arch from the water on a riverboat cruise. The boats are a callback to a bygone era, when steamboats ruled the river and drove local commerce. We visited on a beautiful January day, but it wasn’t quite let’s-take-a-riverboat-cruise warm, which is why the riverboat tours only run March through November.

If you’re passing through town, you could definitely see the Gateway Arch in a few hours, but if you’re looking to make a day of it, this would be a perfect way to savor the Arch and get to know a bit more about St. Louis and the history of the hard-working river.

Gateway Arch National Park is not only an impressive architectural monument, but it serves as an important memory to the westward expansion of our country and journey we took as a nation to get here. It’s certainly worth stopping by if you’re in St. Louis or road tripping nearby. Due it’s rather urban stature, it’s hard to compare the ~natural beauty~ of a man-made arch to some of astounding feats of nature at other parks; however, the very nature of this ‘park’ is a memorable memorial to the country’s growth that houses many of the nation’s most alluring national parks!

If you’re looking for your next national park adventure and you enjoy a national park with a little extra historical significance, Dry Tortugas National Park might tickle your fancy. This old fort can be found about 70 miles off the coast of the Florida keys, making it rather remote but incredibly picturesque.

written by Hannah

Hannah traded the warm beaches of southwest FL for the outdoor adventure locale that is Bend, OR. Despite the distance, Hannah maintains her bossy big sister role with regular phone calls to keep up with all the little sister shenanigans. Notoriously chatty with her patients as well, Hannah stays busy as a physical therapist, but loves making time to explore newfound hikes. These days she has some extra pack weight; however, Xavier is notorious for being unimpressed by sweeping vistas.