Costa Rica is a country that has range. You’ll get jungles and volcanos as well as endless sandy beaches. Whether you’re looking for a fantastic adventure or big relaxation, you’ll find it here in the intriguing niched culture of this Central American gem.
Our Costa Rican adventure was focused on the northwestern part of the country as we explored the greater Arenal region and the Nicoya Peninsula. Each town we visited had its own persona: Arenal with its lush forest biome, Samara’s beachy keen relaxation, Santa Teresa that oozed surfer chic, and the Papagayo Peninsula with its opulent luxury. Visiting all four regions afforded us a glimpse of this diverse country. Below I have detailed all the explorations, food, and places we stayed along the way— as well as things we would potentially do differently if we were to do it all again.
When heading down to Costa Rica, there’s two main airports people typically fly into: San Jose (SJO) and Liberia (LIR). While San Jose is the capital, it’s not always the cheaper option to fly into. Be sure to check both airports when you’re looking at flights. Not only could Liberia be cheaper, but it might mean less drive time as well!
Here’s our road trip map, for anyone looking to enjoy the same outstanding adventure. If you have more questions about some of the logistics of travel, check out our Nine Helpful Costa Rica Travel FAQs.
A R E N A L
the drive in
We landed in Liberia, CR, hopped in the rental car, and started making our way to Arenal. Along the way, we stopped at the Café & Macadamia for the first of many casadas (a traditional Costa Rican plate) we enjoyed during our time here. If you see it while you’re driving, it’s worth pulling over to grab a bite! Not only was the food delicious, but the view from the overlook was beautiful as well. As we continued our drive, the breath-taking views abounded. Taking in all the scenery made the three-hour drive fly by!
mountainous jungle exploration
Arenal is home to a landscape vastly different than the beaches to its east and west. With Mount Arenal as the crown jewel, we found this area to be full with both greenery and adventure. If you enjoy trekking through the forest and spending time with nature, this area is ideal. We spent a morning at Sky Adventures and had the most fantastic time soaring across zip lines, traversing the forest canopy, crossing Tibetan bridges, canyoning, rappelling, and my personal favorite, the Tarzan swing! This is sure to surpass any previous zip lining experience you have had. If you own a GoPro, make sure you bring it to document the experience and save some money! Otherwise you can rent one for the day. If you consider yourself outdoorsy at all, this is a must-do!
white water rafting
As if one action packed day wasn’t enough, we spent our second day in Arenal with Wave, endeavoring in their white-water rafting excursion. We signed up for the Class 3 & 4 rapids trip and had such a blast. On the bus ride to our drop-in point, we had awesome guides talking about the areas we were driving through. We ended up getting dunked in the Sarapiqui River, but we both made it safely back into our raft. That in-the-moment excitement made for quite the story to share with friends and family.
After we victoriously conquered the rapids, we enjoyed casadas, local coffee, and a shot of Cacique Guaro (Costa Rican liqueur). It’s worth noting, this rapids trip was a HUGE adrenaline rush. Be prepared for some fully immersive fun!
Not keen on such a big epinephrine dump? Accommodating outdoor explorers of all comfort levels, Wave also offered hot spring, sloth, ATV, and horse backing riding tours.
yoga
Before we left El Castillo, we went to Essence Arenal Boutique Hostel for a morning yoga class. The yoga studio is towards the back of the property, so we enjoyed a nice pre-yoga warm up walk. Beautiful, serene, and well worth the price of admission. It was a perfect ending to our time in this beautiful area.
brewskis
As we were headed out of Arenal, on our way to Samara, we stopped at the Lake Arenal Brewery. To be honest, they still haven’t totally mastered craft beers yet (per my craft beer loving husband), but the view is pretty stellar! We didn’t spend the night here, but we were surprised to see they also had a hotel here as well. This could be a cool, local place to stay for a night.
sleeps
We loved the Airbnb we stayed at in El Castillo— a small town in the Arenal region. It had breathtaking views of both Mount Arenal and Lake Arenal from a cozy little botanical garden. The Airbnb listing shows you the gorgeous views, but truly, they’re even better in person. A word of caution… four wheel drive and a bit of determination are definitely necessary to navigate the dirt road up to the house.
If you’re more interested in a resort, Nayara Gardens embodies laid back luxury, with their intimate rainforest abodes. They provide a wonderfully curated relaxing experience while the beauty of nature speaks for itself.
S A M A R A
food first
After the adventure rush of Arenal, the beach town vibes of Samara were a welcome change of pace. Growing up in South Florida, there was a sort of familiarity to the touristy nature of the popular beach town. We arrived in Samara and killed some time at Coco’s while we were waiting to get into our Airbnb. We didn’t have anything to eat, but Salvador only had big thumbs up for the beers he tried. Coco’s seems like it is geared towards the tourists, but do not let that dissuade you!
Later that evening we came back to the downtown area and wandered around. La Dolce Vita had a fun outdoor set-up and tasty drinks… a perfect sunset spot! For dinner, Salvador had a hankering for a whole fish. We found Marisqueria Colochos, and they did not disappoint! He tackled the whole fish at a few different restaurants (4) while we were in Costa Rica, but Marisqueria’s was his favorite.
best way to start the day
All three mornings in Samara, we started the day with a walk along the beach that led to Roots Bakery. Talk about a delicious start to the day! If sweet treats and delicious breakfast sandwiches are your jam, this is the place to be. Starting the day with a breakfast walk was a nice way to be active before spending the afternoon poolside.
Italian in Costa Rica
We went to Mama Gui’s for dinner and highly recommend—both for ambiance and quality of food. When we arrived, it was a 15-minute wait for a table, so they offered us a complimentary glass of wine while we waited. Listening to live music with a glass of Chardonnay in hand on a cooled off evening in Costa Rica? Does it get much better than that? The answer turned out to be an overwhelming ~yes~ not long later as we dug into our food.
the Belen waterfall
The Belen waterfall and swimming hole are only a short, 20-minute drive away. You do have a short, moderately steep walk down to the watering hole. It’s nothing that should deter anyone… to call it a hike would be an overstatement. There’s ample space, so you can sun bathe and cool off in the water. For those feeling extra brave, you can climb up and jump off the top of the waterfall. If frolicking and sunning has worked up an appetite, there’s a small soda (local, outdoor café) on your way back to Samara that sells delicious casados.
A couple notes: make sure to bring a couple colones (Costa Rican currency) for the gentleman in the parking lot. He stays up at the parking lot, watching the cars for everyone at the waterfall. Also, be careful swimming through fast-flowing water as there is an underwater cave people have drowned in before. Nothing to be afraid of—just a friendly reminder not to be reckless.
a fantastic final promenade
Our last evening in Samara, we didn’t have a traditional dinner, so much as we had a tapas-style dinner. You can’t beat sampling drinks and appetizers at various restaurants downtown to maximize culinary exploration. A fun way to round out the full Samara experience!
sleeps
There are lots of different options for sleeping accommodations in Samara, but we liked that our Airbnb had a pool and a hammock you could just hang out in, while you took in the view—made it hard to want to leave!
S A N T A T E R E S A
As we hopped from one beach town to another, we couldn’t help but notice the vibe of Santa Teresa was completely different than that of Samara. Santa Teresa is a larger town, but somehow felt less touristy. There’s basically one main, dusty road than runs the length of the town. Pretty much everything you need can either be found there or not far off the path.
a sports bar . . . in paradise?
We arrived into town around lunch, and I am not one to miss a meal, so we sought out Chicken Joe’s for some authentic cuisine. Wish I could say it wasn’t so, but our first evening in Santa Teresa the Baltimore Ravens were playing in the NFL playoffs. Being the die-hard fan he is, Salvador just couldn’t miss it. So after dropping our things at our Airbnb, we found ourselves at Kooks—a sports bar, playing American sports in the middle of Costa Rica. Ladies, hide your husbands!
Despite initially rolling my eyes, both the food and drinks were delicious—plus they recommended La Glida, the gelato shop down the road. Anyone that leads me to fresh gelato is good people! Certainly, not a bad way to kick off our first day in Santa Teresa.
hang ten
It had been a while since we’d attempted surfing, so instead of just renting boards we committed to a surf lesson with Randy at Jackalopes Surf Shop. Zero regrets about this decision as we were all the better for it. Salvador has a frustrating knack for coordination, while I on the other hand received a majority of the patient tips and encouraging corrections from our newfound amigo. That being said, BOTH of us caught waves by the end of the lesson! Plus we were able to use the board the rest of the day to conquer the whitewash waves with confidence.
After getting tossed being repeatedly humbled during our surf lesson, a massage sounded like a dream. I was all too grateful we’d arranged this in advance! How it it that 60 minutes of relaxation flies by so quickly?
sustenance stops
We had more than worked up an appetite by the time we landed at El Carmen. The beachy views and good food would have made for an above average meal themselves, but the pipas frias (cold coconuts filled with fresh water) cart right by the outdoor patio were the perfect replenishment to our afternoon spent battling the waves.
Along our way home, we stopped at The Bakery for a little sweet treat. It was the first of MANY trips to this tasty spot. If you have a sweet tooth, you absolutely must check out the amazing collection of baked delights.
Tortuga Island
Perhaps out most adventurous day in Santa Teresa was actually when we hopped in the car and drove down to Montezuma for a day trip out to Tortuga Island with Zuma Tours. The boat ride out to Tortuga Island takes about 45 minutes, but we stopped along the way for an unexpected surprise. The captain spotted some humpback whales! We kept our distance, but it was so incredible to see such a huge animal in its natural habitat—especially since we saw a mom and her baby.
Once we arrived at our destination, there were far more animals to be found, with myriads of fish galore. My favorites were a black tip reef shark and a couple starfish that seemed partial to me. We were able to snorkel around two different areas, and then we headed to the island for some lunch and lounging. The food was all freshly prepared, and for those looking to elevate the meal, the bar on the island sold pipas frias with the option to add rum for any snorkelers that deserved a little extra treat.
The boat ride back to Monezuma went smoothly, with a school of dolphin joining us for a while along our journey back. Outside of the scenic trip itself, the tour guides went above and beyond to ensure everyone enjoyed themselves. Could not recommend this highly enough! If you have a GoPro, this would be the adventure to bring it on.
beach bum daze
Spending an entire day on the beach was on Salvador’s Costa Rican bucket list. On our last full day in Santa Teresa, I went to a yoga class at the Nautilus Boutique Hotel, while Salvador set off to find a worthy beach-side set-up. As an occasional yogi at best, I found the flow challenging yet inviting. It was a nice way to have some meaningful movement before heading to the beach. I left more than ready for some bummy beach-side relaxation!
While I was getting Zen, Salvador’s search led him to Nantipa. He bought two day passes, staked out a prime lounging location, and we stayed there until the sun went down. The passes cost $75/person, but we each had a $50 credit to use towards the Manzú Beachfront Restaurant. In addition to the dining credit, we were also afforded use of their pool, towels, bathrooms, and assortment of lounge chairs. It made for a calm relaxing day, and when we went on a walk in the afternoon, we left our stuff on the beach without worry. At the end of the day, we had a front row, toes-in-the-sand view as the sun dipped into the ocean.
sleeps
Perhaps the most obsession-worthy view of our trip was that from our Santa Teresa Airbnb. We had the most amazing sunset view, but the infinity pool was certainly a cherry on top. We stayed here for five days and loved that someone came every other day to tidy up. Check out that view!!
P A P A G A Y O P E N I N S U L A
We rounded out our Costa Rican adventure with two days on the Papagayo Peninsula at the Andaz Resort, and the views did not disappoint! What is it about an infinity pool that just takes relaxation to the next level? This was our most posh stay during our time in Costa Rica, and it was wonderful to finish our trip luxuriously. You can learn more about our experience as well as additional adventures available through Andaz Costa Rica here.
eat wander repeat
Upon arrival, we ate lunch at the Rio Bhongo Restaurant. Our lunch hit the spot, but their breakfast menu caught our eye and had us making breakfast plans for the following day. After lunch, we settled into our room and then headed out to explore the resort property. Our favorite way to acquaint ourselves with a new place is simply to wander about.
Our exploration took us through the resort, down the beach, across the marina, until we could walk no farther. A restaurant/bar called the Dive Bar (not dive-y at all) was a perfect spot to share drinks and look out across the inlet. Tuckered out from our long day, we ended up calling it an early evening and ordered room service. It arrived in a festive picnic basket—the cutest dinner-in-bed experience!
bike n’ beach babe
We woke up excited to hit the breakfast buffet and smoothie bar at the Rio Bhongo, and it was just as amazing a spread as we’d hoped. After breakfast, we discovered the Papagayo Peninsula electric bike share program (included in the resort fee), and hopped on a few bike to explore AND get a bit of exercise in. We rode bikes down to the Beach House on Playa Nacascolo, the shared beach area between Andaz and Four Season’s, and were delighted by the lounging set-up and beach-side service.
It is not uncommon to see cute little Capuchin monkeys in the trees while you’re lounging by the pool or down by the beach, but beware! They may try to run off with your things—cute but clever! A short walk down the beach, a local was offering rides on a banana boat, which was a perfect way to cool off. We wandered back to the Beach House and shared some homemade ice cream from the Beach House before heading back to our room.
authentic eats
For our final evening in Costa Rica, we left the resort to have a truly authentic meal a bit north at Casa del Mar. Playa Cabuyal is a short walk down the road, so we found a bit of sand to hold down, watched the sun set, and headed towards the restaurant for Salvador to enjoy his final Costa Rican whole fish. We were the only ones there, so we were able to have quality conversations with the bartender and cook. It was a very nice place with equally kind people.
pre-flight paddle boarding
Our last morning here, we woke up and headed down to the beach for some paddle boarding as soon as they opened. Salvador had never tried it before and was surprised how much coordination it took—even on a calm, flat day. When it was time to go, we hopped back in the car and made the short, 30-minute trip to the airport. We weren’t ready for our Costa Rican adventure to come to a close, but we were so thrilled to have been able to explore such a special place.
IF WE WERE TO DO IT ALL AGAIN . . .
Costa Rica was a wonderful place to enjoy a delightful array of niched sub-cultures. Each city we visited had its own distinct identity. Arenal is so different from Santa Teresa, which also differs from the Papagayo Peninsula. We stayed 2-5 nights at each city we visited, so we could cultivate an authentic snapshot of each area but still gain an appreciation for the country as a whole.
THE HIGHS
If you’re not looking to road trip, you could easily spend a whole week in Arenal, Santa Teresa, or the Papagayo Peninsula. Arenal has a truly breathtaking microclimate, and is a must-visit if you thrive on outdoor adventure. Hanging bridges, Tarzan swings, zip-lines, hot springs, rafting… if you’re looking to connect with nature and feel alive, this should be at the top of your Costa Rica itinerary.
Santa Teresa epitomizes the “pura vida” lifestyle the country is known for, in all the best ways. As a bonus, Montezuma is an easy 30-minute drive, making it easy to pop over for a day. Despite being at the bottom of the Nicoya Peninsula, we felt Santa Teresa was worth the drive!
The resorts on the Papagayo Peninsula are the definition of luxury in Costa Rica. While we certainly enjoyed Andaz (and recommend it highly!), it truly seems like you can’t go wrong with any of the resorts on the peninsula. This seems like a perfect area for couples looking to splurge… honeymoon anyone? Or perhaps a family interested in all the activities they offer— you could certainly keep the kids busy! The only word of warning? The private beaches, infinity pools, and luxury amenities might make it hard to want to leave the resort!
THE LOWS
While we certainly enjoyed our three relaxing days in Samara, it did not leave us wanting more the way the other three areas did. A wonderful, calm change of pace from our Arenal excitement, but also just a too bit touristy for us. If we were to do it all again, I’m not sure we would return to Samara. No horror stories or sordid tales, I’m just not keen on visiting another country to have a touristy beach vacation.
written by Hannah
Hannah has learned the hard way to be careful what you wish for— sometimes happily ever after lands you with a husband and puppy… in the Midwest. Despite leaving Florida to move to Wisconsin, Hannah maintains her bossy big sister role with regular phone calls to keep up with all the little sister shenanigans. Notoriously chatty with her patients as well, Hannah stays busy as a physical therapist, but loves spending weekends exploring newfound hikes.
